tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-46230711114994136432024-02-06T18:25:09.946-08:00TIGERtanker's Metal MilitiaTIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.comBlogger30125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-84976708995031503212014-02-25T14:04:00.001-08:002014-02-25T14:16:54.968-08:00The Three Amigos...I picked up these little beauties from Merlyn's in Spokane last weekend, the IS3 heavy tank platoon by BattleFront. Very good sculpts, and the resin suspensions were a new twist. Very clean and crisp casting, loads better than the standard metal ones. I daresay even better than the new line of plastic parts BattleFront has been producing lately.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9qa_70H_Ra1_GXREwA9VlCUbcE3tQGZXCSoAIHbBfjSH9sFp0MA79VVesRPUJE9Wad03HtTk7k5rCjLIf1f_SzgQTQxeZetwVrd2CqpPD9bt2YNY0Pc-7XewvhJNviAocp1znlRF8kQ/s1600/3amigos.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9qa_70H_Ra1_GXREwA9VlCUbcE3tQGZXCSoAIHbBfjSH9sFp0MA79VVesRPUJE9Wad03HtTk7k5rCjLIf1f_SzgQTQxeZetwVrd2CqpPD9bt2YNY0Pc-7XewvhJNviAocp1znlRF8kQ/s1600/3amigos.jpg" height="417" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The "Three Amigos"<br />
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As pleased as I am with the suspension sculpts, I am a little worried about wear and tear. One good drop and they will surely shatter. <br />
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One concern was the fit of the suspensions to the hull. The castings didn't seem to really fit well, and a few seemed slightly warped. Now, if you are a long time BF collector, this isn't rare, or a big deal. Yo simply bend and twist the metal parts back into shape. Sadly you can't do that with resin and one has to make things work as best they can. With some filing and trimming I got the tracks to fit, and they look fine from "a players view", but if you turn them over there are massive gaps between the hull and tracks, making any glue bond kinda suspect. I poured as much superglue as a I dared into the gaps and honestly I don't really anticipate a problem.<br />
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The painting was fairly straightforward. I prime/based with the Krylon "camo green" spray paint. Its an outstanding primer in an of itself, and I think a pretty good match for US brown-violet. For Allied vehicles the Krylon save several steps. Over that I did a heavy dry-brush with a lightened Tamiya olive-green, blackwash with oils (very heavy on the back-deck grates), a little rust effects on the spare track and exhaust, and a VEEEEEEEERY light dusting of stone tan. I used the decals from the PAVN T-34M box set, "distressing" them with a sponge daubing of Tamiya olive-green, and a little rust. The Soviet red star is hand painted.<br />
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My intent is to be ready for any sort of "what-if in 1946" sort of game opportunities. If not, my local group is reasonable about proxies and will make an awesome IS2 platoon.<br />
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Comments welcome!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI67vNLVQb-qRmyH6wFw16jlCwKWeZb1z4xJJ8hSS35X9jsssFEZNrSrGhTD5GNhaF_-xZMCjXZRHuppaItsSIwFlPscMMBz-eV92XjgfriD3KQwGW3EZUDAQNWqMdIEJSLHV5pItCSg/s1600/THREEamigos.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI67vNLVQb-qRmyH6wFw16jlCwKWeZb1z4xJJ8hSS35X9jsssFEZNrSrGhTD5GNhaF_-xZMCjXZRHuppaItsSIwFlPscMMBz-eV92XjgfriD3KQwGW3EZUDAQNWqMdIEJSLHV5pItCSg/s1600/THREEamigos.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Short, Martin, and Chase</td></tr>
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<br />TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-42836753919973423982014-02-18T18:28:00.001-08:002014-02-18T18:32:01.960-08:00Not that it took me three attempts or anything...Here I present for your scrutiny and entertainment, my IL2 Shurmovik. All resin, 1:144 scale made by Battlefront mainly for use in their Flames of War system.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpQriMaPZpbBR7ejJBconO8v8Oy-_VAApclhppWpdVKwMn0MUX052qmiL0X6U2F7SOs7QeQ5xuIRmWdwgbSUoMLNb4-jwgme3hI04I5FyvQ5_GEO6JgbQOh9NSlvJp2IL_NF189EzfBA/s1600/1_5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpQriMaPZpbBR7ejJBconO8v8Oy-_VAApclhppWpdVKwMn0MUX052qmiL0X6U2F7SOs7QeQ5xuIRmWdwgbSUoMLNb4-jwgme3hI04I5FyvQ5_GEO6JgbQOh9NSlvJp2IL_NF189EzfBA/s1600/1_5.jpg" height="151" width="400" /></a></div>
This camo pattern is pretty much stock, as presented by "those who know", the standard brown-green tigerstripe pattern. It's all I've ever seen, and it is very easy to just rely on this standard scheme. I've tried, my first few attempts at painting this aircraft were really dismal, unimaginative attempts at mimicking this stock scheme. However, as we all <u>should</u> know, if one takes the time to do some basic research some really neat things happen.<br />
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Google led me to a subsection of "Soviet Warplanes.com" <br />
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<a href="http://mig3.sovietwarplanes.com/il-2/il-2.htm">http://mig3.sovietwarplanes.com/il-2/il-2.htm</a><br />
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where I found a completely gnarly webpage on not only the sturmovik in all its evolutions, but also the regulation camo schemes, color, and patterns as the war progressed. The schemes are even broke down by factory and unit in some instances. If you have ay shine at all about the IL2, you REEEEEAAAALLY need to visit this site. You won't be disappointed.<br />
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At any rate, I tried to match the make of Sturmovik modeled by Battlefront to the earliest example, and I matched the model as the IL2M.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2qNGrRxdRaUmNQ-1JwXYEjh9WI5YllBcQbMcJZTfAAHJfAUJfDc6eebsOReMzoP95kgei4qNFDG19TCY31-B56crdgbTUeTRMPghtKzZB4m_5-QWk5TN-EcfHP4A-AHK1e0hP-C3wGA/s1600/template1c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2qNGrRxdRaUmNQ-1JwXYEjh9WI5YllBcQbMcJZTfAAHJfAUJfDc6eebsOReMzoP95kgei4qNFDG19TCY31-B56crdgbTUeTRMPghtKzZB4m_5-QWk5TN-EcfHP4A-AHK1e0hP-C3wGA/s1600/template1c.jpg" height="640" width="476" /></a></div>
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Now this looks nothing like that old, boring, plaid-out model-box camo scheme... so I went to work.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9kPFypsXWcACHuQ0aY36Fy1TR8oNw_da-zufm-nY8HAki7lmeZKy2dwPp3MDQ1Y8DGHBNgMUIQaWSHYoR4wllZvXSGmZMuubVFU1TfluyGRJ-0TDLe2mK9ihEA5CJFv3TPO8cSYsU-g/s1600/20140213_141744-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9kPFypsXWcACHuQ0aY36Fy1TR8oNw_da-zufm-nY8HAki7lmeZKy2dwPp3MDQ1Y8DGHBNgMUIQaWSHYoR4wllZvXSGmZMuubVFU1TfluyGRJ-0TDLe2mK9ihEA5CJFv3TPO8cSYsU-g/s1600/20140213_141744-1.jpg" height="332" width="400" /></a></div>
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So here we are, "white 22". I based the paint scheme on the the Kuybyshev factory camo standard, after August 1943. I added the red nose and wingtips. Call it a weakness. I also wanted the opportunity to experiment with oil weathering, and practice my panel line inking.<br />
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to be cont...TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-14500567018237102082013-10-10T18:35:00.001-07:002013-10-10T18:35:57.561-07:00Soviet KV-1s heavy tank company...Even though it came as quite a shock to German forces as they invaded the Soviet Union, the Soviets were never completely happy with the KV design.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soviet KV-1 with the later cast turret<br />
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There were many problems as the Soviet mechanized forces deployed to meet the Germans head on, but lack of effective maintenance, lacks of spares and POL, ammunition shortages, poor training, and mechanical failures (particularly involving the steering clutches) led to high loss rates among the KV fleet in the first few month of the war on the Eastern Front.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">KV-1 E with applique armor plates bolted on to counter expected German AT improvements.</td></tr>
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By the summer of 1942, the STAVKA were thoroughly disillusioned on the design, meant to give heavy support to light and medium tank companies, the KV couldn't keep up with Soviet tank columns and were often too little, to late. Part of the problem was that too much was added to the tank in terms of armor protection and technical improvements without any upgrade in the power pack. This resulted in a slow, sluggish tank with a greater than expected logistics tail.</div>
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All KV-1 were pulled out of tank regiments and formed their own separate regiments and brigades to directly support infantry. Also, the design bureaus delivered the KV-1 S ("speedy") with a smaller cast turret, and armor protection levels along the original specifications. It was a more vulnerable vehicle, but it made up for it in mobility.</div>
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Here I have a company of 15mm KV-1 s heavy tanks, by Battlefront.</div>
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I prefer dry transfers to water-slide decals, and that is what I used for the turret numbers. No unit in mind, just a generic system. I used the sponge technique to weather the numbers, giving them a worn and chipped look. </div>
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An interesting quirk I found is that even though the commander is no longer the loader, and is positioned on the left side of the gun behind the gunner, his observation cupola has no hatch! the only exit is through the loader's station, unbelievable!!</div>
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TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-32119103910028883842012-08-13T21:01:00.000-07:002012-08-13T21:01:33.458-07:00US Army "Modern" fireteam... I wanted to take up the challenge of doing modern US Army troops, in what was at the time the field uniform, in UCP camoflague. Between the color scheme at scale, and the dot patterns, it was a GREAT challenge, having to paint and strip several times before I arrived with a technique that yielded the results I wanted. For your amusement...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF7GafxPtlq1XRFOIG1Saruob19LzGDC3suxkQqAKnPnUxzdQiDkKrH5AFt0udS8_eRhRlQt571JwKYmhZAW30dXNKkYhQv32YMtKi3k8DWbwirwJYAcgVFc0cpgqTzEmgUzMzbMQB0g/s1600/fireteam1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF7GafxPtlq1XRFOIG1Saruob19LzGDC3suxkQqAKnPnUxzdQiDkKrH5AFt0udS8_eRhRlQt571JwKYmhZAW30dXNKkYhQv32YMtKi3k8DWbwirwJYAcgVFc0cpgqTzEmgUzMzbMQB0g/s320/fireteam1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The scheme is a basic light gray, with light green/gray and "Feldgrau" blotches mostly oriented in a horizontal plane. I washed the helmets, crotch plates, body armor, elbows and knees in brown to mimic the dirt and grime, and how some uniform bits may be washed more often than others. <br />
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Now, just when I thought I had accomplished something, now the Army comes up with "unicam"... and I gotta start all over again. <br />
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I intend to use these for the new Force on Force modern skirmish rules. I'm going 20mm, and it should be awesome!!TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-25501081092374972532012-06-09T03:17:00.001-07:002012-06-09T03:18:15.715-07:00A little help for my... comerades!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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For your amusement, my first support unit, a company of 120MM mortars ready to lob hot steel onto the heads of the Hitlerite invaders! In Flames of War terms, 130 points for 6 tubes (Red Bear), + 20 points for observers and trucks. AT 3, FP 3+, range: 56". <br />
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I've decided to dig the battery in, making for a more interesting visual. The process wasn't hard, build the timber frame and pile up the gravel in front of it layer by layer.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTznBDFk4TcCouHnI_TipPMv5_29uW3SMXg54Q1twmdyxqeicevF_g-Np53g_-EJtk3U34LKcL9aiTxhB8F7eQeXVdLNvCfmTlGBNXJxUY8hJFqH7i9nIGUuHst-cc125tbwhPmfhyUg/s1600/2012-06-08+02.21.56.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTznBDFk4TcCouHnI_TipPMv5_29uW3SMXg54Q1twmdyxqeicevF_g-Np53g_-EJtk3U34LKcL9aiTxhB8F7eQeXVdLNvCfmTlGBNXJxUY8hJFqH7i9nIGUuHst-cc125tbwhPmfhyUg/s320/2012-06-08+02.21.56.jpg" width="320" /> </a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTznBDFk4TcCouHnI_TipPMv5_29uW3SMXg54Q1twmdyxqeicevF_g-Np53g_-EJtk3U34LKcL9aiTxhB8F7eQeXVdLNvCfmTlGBNXJxUY8hJFqH7i9nIGUuHst-cc125tbwhPmfhyUg/s1600/2012-06-08+02.21.56.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"> </a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTznBDFk4TcCouHnI_TipPMv5_29uW3SMXg54Q1twmdyxqeicevF_g-Np53g_-EJtk3U34LKcL9aiTxhB8F7eQeXVdLNvCfmTlGBNXJxUY8hJFqH7i9nIGUuHst-cc125tbwhPmfhyUg/s1600/2012-06-08+02.21.56.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"> </a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTznBDFk4TcCouHnI_TipPMv5_29uW3SMXg54Q1twmdyxqeicevF_g-Np53g_-EJtk3U34LKcL9aiTxhB8F7eQeXVdLNvCfmTlGBNXJxUY8hJFqH7i9nIGUuHst-cc125tbwhPmfhyUg/s1600/2012-06-08+02.21.56.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"> </a><br />
The gun crews I patterned on the early-mid war<br />
uniforms, using Polly S dust as a base, highlighted with Polly-S mud. Fielding a Soviet army on a budget, these will work for early and mid-war armies, and will pass for later-war as well. The mortar tubes were primed in Krylon camo-green, black-washed with painters oils, then highlighted with German panzer olive.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhpAf0sF-MVo0hWKEhWdcXlzsAp2SqjGPx58wPT0bB65yF5sL-jPDajjsuW2vX8NKD6ieUzn8i_KxT4RfjC7uYOmuwV0SGZBw4WcgKYF20g9fTMKX4crfvJStsPx7bL2yDmH7yGGRe-Q/s1600/sovietMORTARS4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhpAf0sF-MVo0hWKEhWdcXlzsAp2SqjGPx58wPT0bB65yF5sL-jPDajjsuW2vX8NKD6ieUzn8i_KxT4RfjC7uYOmuwV0SGZBw4WcgKYF20g9fTMKX4crfvJStsPx7bL2yDmH7yGGRe-Q/s320/sovietMORTARS4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
For the timber-cribbing I used stir-sticks from a local coffee shop. I split them width-wise into three, and tore them into the lengths I needed. After super-gluing them into place, I coated them with a GW wood brown, then black-washed them in the joints, recesses, and seams to give it a more aged look.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrN3RYFSNVC_PchdB4wQHkQRy_tWkL9VOpmEY1hyphenhyphenbhD_dhPO9km2dQyRTJcpcAiJg8hSXkccxKgoCqilbtiwurW5ui_8xfT7zkmxvw6LOh0T5uIvpCmFhOnJIKhvNdkz8wGUCNXlkbBw/s1600/sovietMORTARS.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrN3RYFSNVC_PchdB4wQHkQRy_tWkL9VOpmEY1hyphenhyphenbhD_dhPO9km2dQyRTJcpcAiJg8hSXkccxKgoCqilbtiwurW5ui_8xfT7zkmxvw6LOh0T5uIvpCmFhOnJIKhvNdkz8wGUCNXlkbBw/s320/sovietMORTARS.jpg" width="272" /></a></div>
I'm still not quite satisfied with the soil effects, and will be experimenting with finer grain materials, colors, etc. Still, they should catch a few eyes on the table.<br />
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I look forward to ranging in with them, and putting some poor infantry platoon out of my misery!TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-72655061638767882562012-05-02T03:45:00.000-07:002012-05-02T03:45:36.825-07:00PSC T-34/85's Finally Completed...<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Hc5pvZOwKLTf_Vi2ZJ7lLzv5RXIseEEYTo4b_N7Kfqh35E4Fqpbc9_ZrTvrT-sO5jV8hTG_XIS0SUuB-ekK9PYaUR3GPWyuwuRV-2GZjKj5H-WfAd5yxEL7Skv4Gubuk4JCrF8BspA/s1600/starsRT.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="127" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Hc5pvZOwKLTf_Vi2ZJ7lLzv5RXIseEEYTo4b_N7Kfqh35E4Fqpbc9_ZrTvrT-sO5jV8hTG_XIS0SUuB-ekK9PYaUR3GPWyuwuRV-2GZjKj5H-WfAd5yxEL7Skv4Gubuk4JCrF8BspA/s200/starsRT.jpg" width="200" /></a>Finally!! I got there little monsters to where I want them, and am comfortable putting them on a gaming table. I'm kind of a nerd about that, and get really self conscious about putting sub-standard lead, or plastic as the case may be, on the table. This last tournament I entered was a real nightmare for me, as much of the force I fielded was little more than base-coated. There was little I could do, if I wanted to play at all, and had to swallow my pride. When my friend Scott MacPhee wasn't able to show, I really wasn't that put-out. I would have been embarrassed and spent too much time making excuses, etc.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5w-NYFb-5JgZgKbqGAn6CKTGqoxlcdMGHtr0K1htJuIrbyiTXkHatU0oFYWAh_OyrDOP1OQE9ZlnCOQeGbbKf_znGZZnPF1fSLRaPRWPFMy5dglyORe8-Hd-dujltzh1WaVMZcpFuBA/s1600/starsTOP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5w-NYFb-5JgZgKbqGAn6CKTGqoxlcdMGHtr0K1htJuIrbyiTXkHatU0oFYWAh_OyrDOP1OQE9ZlnCOQeGbbKf_znGZZnPF1fSLRaPRWPFMy5dglyORe8-Hd-dujltzh1WaVMZcpFuBA/s320/starsTOP.jpg" width="320" /></a>What I have for you today is a unit of Soviet T-34/85's, made by Plastic Soldier Company, painted in generic, oversized markings. I base-coated the plastic in Krylon "ultra-flat camoflague green" spray primer. The looked good but came off a bit too "olive" for Soviet equipment, so I applied a tint of Tamiya olive green to bring the base more in the direction of what Soviet armor generally looked like. Next I applied numerous oil washes with red-brown and black, in separate coats and in combination, to provide shading and weathering effects. The rear deck, and the vents received the lion's share of this treatment. Next came highlighting using Polly-S Panzer Olive green. I just didn't feel comfortable going any lighter.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV6OeGH7eBE6fCHkGGmlGmeCifzPlUfUhF9PVsX3ntkZ0m1jYtbfQSkx3Z6oSQVTRGv9t8ztlsMe8AMMXbU9B3seAUb4L66JgV2XhepMOV3nsrNkeMrRCqHp1w4hgiRH5oXgK6ZVsOwQ/s1600/trrtNMBRcls.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV6OeGH7eBE6fCHkGGmlGmeCifzPlUfUhF9PVsX3ntkZ0m1jYtbfQSkx3Z6oSQVTRGv9t8ztlsMe8AMMXbU9B3seAUb4L66JgV2XhepMOV3nsrNkeMrRCqHp1w4hgiRH5oXgK6ZVsOwQ/s400/trrtNMBRcls.jpg" width="400" /></a>No historical marking schemes seemed to attract my attention, so I decided to do oversize markings and use what I had left over from my IL-2 box set. I used the wing stars and fuselage numbers, in a single digit scheme, creating a generic Soviet unit, but giving the appearance of some sort of regulation or order. I had to "wing it" a little, as the decal sheet didn't have the "1" or "6" numberals, so a chopped "4" and a frankenstein combination of a "2" and an upside-down "5" did just nicely. I shied away from the various coats of glosscoat, dullcoat, et al and just stuck with decal set. What silvering did crop up I painted over with Tamiya Olive Green. Not perfect, but I think I can get some sweet results with more practice. All in all this decal experience was far better that past bunglings.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKVYrOCTKrQGIuGejBMQmaOX3y1Ui1GJMJvFsEcPsmFQ-XEqfcopf405Iz8Uf46eldvKjkDpUPTn1oVw6rJm6kM28BiGVplQXTU1Vq85fJhFIyUAEvVZdrws7hRCOrYezJ6MKrSRyk3A/s1600/starsCLS.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="161" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKVYrOCTKrQGIuGejBMQmaOX3y1Ui1GJMJvFsEcPsmFQ-XEqfcopf405Iz8Uf46eldvKjkDpUPTn1oVw6rJm6kM28BiGVplQXTU1Vq85fJhFIyUAEvVZdrws7hRCOrYezJ6MKrSRyk3A/s320/starsCLS.jpg" width="320" /></a>My overall painting style is what I call "Rabid Monkey" style, where models are liberally highlighted, but not also severely contrasted, and with some modest weathering thrown in. The rear deck of tanks are a dirty, "diesely", oily area, and I wanted to reflect that. I also wanted to distress the turret markings somewhat, so they aren't pristine and visually distracting. I used the sponging technique, and I think I got really lucky! The numbers, I think, have a great effect, and am happy with the results.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFhpZegQeRYIcd2AYPRI5W5dFCr1tMEhqm88BhE95faQGFVNCCUBqcH1AS_vhE43hP5Np5CDocOhP0VftwuDPhRVoEa5fV2QMpupV6VAFYKdcdrZ4D36zkGWrZn1AeeHizumSmf4P9NA/s1600/nmbrGRP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFhpZegQeRYIcd2AYPRI5W5dFCr1tMEhqm88BhE95faQGFVNCCUBqcH1AS_vhE43hP5Np5CDocOhP0VftwuDPhRVoEa5fV2QMpupV6VAFYKdcdrZ4D36zkGWrZn1AeeHizumSmf4P9NA/s400/nmbrGRP.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
All I need to do now is repeat my luck with the 5 (6 including the Dedov model) /42 turrets for mid-war units. I've got 1/72 dry transfers coming soon so I'll keep y'all posted on that progress.TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-61283373628943074282012-03-01T13:04:00.001-08:002012-03-01T13:27:19.313-08:00Battelfront and PSC T-34/85 side by side photos...<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNZ2Gek11OQBogg11Xylb4BrsGjxmkSuPX6CALWymA74HND4U_HuI1tH_vfam0ZBumNVmcOwA9CM47vxi7mw7jAo9iCbXml3KHyNK-2VrtI_DTOh43SzsYyVs6dfbBZMhLnMZkFnBbAA/s1600/2012-02-29+18.03.03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="140" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNZ2Gek11OQBogg11Xylb4BrsGjxmkSuPX6CALWymA74HND4U_HuI1tH_vfam0ZBumNVmcOwA9CM47vxi7mw7jAo9iCbXml3KHyNK-2VrtI_DTOh43SzsYyVs6dfbBZMhLnMZkFnBbAA/s200/2012-02-29+18.03.03.jpg" width="200" /></a>I'm gearing up for my first Flames of War tournament on the 10th, and am planning to bring a Guards (Red Army) Tankovy Battalion into the fight. That being said, I needed a lot of T-34's in a hurry, and on a budget. PSC seemed to be the way to go. At $25 for a box of 5, vs a blister of 1 tank for $15 or a boxed set of 5 for $60... we all can do the math.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEKEGJL3hM-2fF81I7dCGuzX_r3CTII7QCWiYt130vzIbkhtnVvvKYHJHcYaETjsr1hn0kv1IYQG0fJhDzAvGi3zGu0TjR8ox41HtpA3yYcUHIs2089G-xnjJtGbA7bfLMnadsKP15RQ/s1600/devov1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="125" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEKEGJL3hM-2fF81I7dCGuzX_r3CTII7QCWiYt130vzIbkhtnVvvKYHJHcYaETjsr1hn0kv1IYQG0fJhDzAvGi3zGu0TjR8ox41HtpA3yYcUHIs2089G-xnjJtGbA7bfLMnadsKP15RQ/s200/devov1.jpg" width="200" /></a>Assembly wasn't bad, but the track can be a bit fiddly, and I tried many different methods of getting that track on without too much trouble or the gaps that everyone seems to be getting. I think I solved the problem to about 80%, by gluing the tracks on prior to installing them on the running gear. It takes the patience to allow the glue to fully dry and cure, with a combination of "super" glue, and proper plastic cement.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmfI_xZriBmNZwjo2xHqm6plk_9ybe3ERodYNFsv72CXRKAtS5XHm_JmJfJEhyphenhyphenCNyI8qly91B0g9mYpCVVT85n3fqR6WTB0Jqkt9KZTTskozvMxx4mNtLZvkR5cDrol2mwbIm_h_dxvA/s1600/dedov_PSC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmfI_xZriBmNZwjo2xHqm6plk_9ybe3ERodYNFsv72CXRKAtS5XHm_JmJfJEhyphenhyphenCNyI8qly91B0g9mYpCVVT85n3fqR6WTB0Jqkt9KZTTskozvMxx4mNtLZvkR5cDrol2mwbIm_h_dxvA/s320/dedov_PSC.jpg" width="320" /></a>Painting was easy, the PSC had good clean lines, but had little detail. BF had less rear-deck detail, but more storage and clutter to catch highlight colors. Still, I think they both turned out fine. I used Krylon "Camoflague" green spray paint. It's a primer, geared for plastics, and is WELL worth the expense. It sprays very smooth, covers fantastically, and in this case comes out looking most like the US Olive Drab spray paint put out by BF. I used that as my darker base, and higlighted liberally with Polly-S "Panzer Olive Green". Two black oil washes for depth, and a brown wash for weathering, and here we are. <br />
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I still have some work to do, with one track still needing to finish assembly and basecoat/priming, the rest need attention to the track and tow cables. I'm debating whether or not to add dust effects, or just keep them clean.<br />
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The Dedov model I'm using for my battalion command track, the rest I'm using for the line companies. Right now, for the tourney I'll have to sub some Shermans, but another box or two of PSC tanks and that problem will be solved. Wish me luck!TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-71325397059478142672012-02-02T15:40:00.000-08:002012-02-02T23:08:24.992-08:00ASL to FoW Conversion Project... Episode 1 "Prelude to Luttich"I had a wild idea a some time ago about taking Advanced Squad Leader scenarios and converting them to Flames of War. Historical scenarios with FoW are something, I feel, that can be greatly expanded upon, as a taste of "something different", and a way to better embrace the historical nature of a table-top miniatures wargame.<br />
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For starters, I found a campaign of historical scenarios authored by Pete Pollard. The campaign tackles the foiled German counter-offensive at Mortain. Several panzer divisions, including SS units, faced off against (primarily) the US 30th Infantry division.<br />
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Here is the first installment, "Prelude to Luttich"...<br />
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"Near LaFantay, France, 6 August, 1944: In the waning light of an early August day, lead elements of the 2nd Panzer division made contact with the US 30th Infantry division in positions located north of Mortain. A handful of Panthers, supported by infantry, advanced on the northern units of the 117th Infantry regiment. The Americans had set up a roadblock north of St. Barthelmy with a few squads and two 57mm AT guns."<br />
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<b>Duration</b>: 6 turns<br />
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<b>Setup:</b> US player sets up first, using the following rules reserves, ambush, kampfgruppe.<br />
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German player hold units OFF BOARD and enters from east board edge on turn one. <br />
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<b>Victory Conditions</b>: To win, the German player must destroy both AT guns <b>AND</b> exit 9 infantry teams off the west board edge. The US player wins by avoiding the German VC.<br />
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<b>Forces:</b><br />
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<u><strong>US-</strong></u> Elements of the 117th Infantry rgt, B company set up anywhere within 30inches of western board edge. All infantry and man-packed gun teams begin dug-in and gone to ground.<br />
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1 Inf'y command team (CO)<br />
1 Inf'y platoon (3 RFL squads + bazooka team)<br />
1 Inf'y platoon (3 RFL squads + bazooka team)<br />
1 HMG team to be attached as needed<br />
1 Artillery Oberver team (indep)<br />
2 "Roadblock" markers<br />
Off board:<br />
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1 Field Artillery Battery 6x 105mm guns (does <u>not</u> enter the board)<br />
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In Reserve:<br />
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1 Inf'y Platoon (3x RFL squads + bazooka team)<br />
1 HMG team attached ton Inf'y platoon<br />
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In Ambush:<br />
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1 AT gun platoon (2x 57mm guns + Platoon cmd team)<br />
company 2iC command team<br />
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<u><strong>German-</strong></u> Elements of German 2nd Panzer division & 3rd Recon Bn enter board anywhere along eastern edge. All vehicles are limited to 1/2 movement for turn one.<br />
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2 PzGrn Cmd teams (Co and 2iC)<br />
1 PzGrn Platoon (3x MG squads + PzFaust cmd team)<br />
1 PzGrn Platoon (3x MG squads + PzFaust cmd team)<br />
1 Kfz 231 8-rad armored car<br />
1 Pz V "Panther" cmd tank<br />
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In Reserve:<br />
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1 PzGrn Platoon (3x MG squads + PzFaust cmd team)<br />
2 Pz V "Panther" tanks<br />
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Scenario Special Rules:<br />
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Reserves- Both the US and German player can roll for reserves beginning on turn 3. US player can accumulate reserve dice beginning on turn 1 so, by turn 3, the US player should roll 3 dice for reserves. US reserves enter from west board edge. German player begins accumulating reserve dice on turn 2, so by turn 3 German player should roll 2 reserve dice. German reserves enter from east board edge.<br />
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US AT gun platoon enters the game together as 2 seperate "platoons", the original with platoon cmd team and 1 gun, the second "kampfgrupped" with the company 21C and 1 gun. US gun teams begin dug in.<br />
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<strong>Map:</strong> (3' x 5', click to see full size...)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaSc5X6FgnQQqMvWIgGT2gja6WnsdfvC13gRVRnt1TnGKtL5yXEpe1e6XACQ51ehhbeTMUiDO1nyVQeGl4-wLpA6C2krGcmJFiNOCJBbK9cOil9ieEKq0RvLsziiWbhwlDXrbo2X5zBg/s1600/PreludetoLuttich.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="435" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaSc5X6FgnQQqMvWIgGT2gja6WnsdfvC13gRVRnt1TnGKtL5yXEpe1e6XACQ51ehhbeTMUiDO1nyVQeGl4-wLpA6C2krGcmJFiNOCJBbK9cOil9ieEKq0RvLsziiWbhwlDXrbo2X5zBg/s640/PreludetoLuttich.gif" width="640" /></a></div><br />
Fairly simple, dirt roads, wheat fields, trees and bocage. It is August and nearing the harvest so the wheat fields should be rather tall. The large brown mass in the NE corner is a hill.<br />
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<b>Aftermath:</b> "The 57mm guns fired 15 rounds at the lead advancing tanks. Not surprisingly, none of the shells penetrated the Panther's frontal armor. The lead tank's shot on the roadblock killed two men and destroyed one of the AT guns. The remaining Americans withdrew, but were quickly re-enforced with more squads and artillery support. The Germans faded into the woods as darkness enveloped the field of battle."<br />
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This one is going to be tough, the Germans outweigh the Americans in points by about 2 to 1 (using FE). Good luck and enjoy!!TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-65672439769449505152011-02-18T14:08:00.000-08:002011-02-18T14:08:07.908-08:00Flames of War "Basecoat in a Can" review...As I'm slowly plugging along with my 12thSS Panzer Division FoW army, the time has come to add tank support. What better support can an "HJ" grenadier ask for than from his brothers in 12th SS Panzer Regiment? The best of these are Panthers... so I gotta get busy!<br />
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I saw that BattleFront has released spraypaint specifically formulated for WW2 tank color schemes based on nationality. The Germans, for most of the war (or the latter half at least), base-painted their armor using variations of a yellow-ochre, commonly referred to as "Panzer Yellow". Now, unless you were lucky enough to own an airbrush, along with its accrutrements, along with the space, & skill to use it... you were left, in essence, "slathering" panzer yellow all over your miniature... with various results.<br />
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For all those who have done it, brush-basing your armor minis is a time consuming, torturous process. One must somehow reconcile painting speed and coverage, all the while taking pains not to obliterate the fine detail of your mini. BattleFront's spray makes the promise to not only improve paint speed and coverage, but also do this in an (argueably) historically accurate color. This, for me anyway, has been a challenge... so when I became aware of this product, I was very interested in giving it a go.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjurM-Sm3jbV9-x9x94jS1XQub9YUI50SWGFf7q0XsnEXZ4Bih9nA6kFtRm8uoxpPUV623MIuth_DPq_t0v3V5RopDkNyT_4UIntjPMZK0NDG51ZKy_s4H5Lipfws6ocPmcHBzxrNQ9MQ/s1600/Wunsche1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="162" j6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjurM-Sm3jbV9-x9x94jS1XQub9YUI50SWGFf7q0XsnEXZ4Bih9nA6kFtRm8uoxpPUV623MIuth_DPq_t0v3V5RopDkNyT_4UIntjPMZK0NDG51ZKy_s4H5Lipfws6ocPmcHBzxrNQ9MQ/s320/Wunsche1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Here we have what will become Max Wunsche's regimental befehlspanther, based upon the Ernst Barkmann boxed set by BattleFront. I used a light-gray spray primer (as opposed to dark gray or black) with the idea to get as much "pop" in the yellow basecoat. It was suggested that I mask the vehicle commander as the basecoat can get a little thick. It does come out a bit thicker than a primer, and one must understand that these paints are not primers in themselves. It is very recommended that you do prime your mini before applying the basecoat.<br />
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Immediately you see that its best to use many light, "gentle" passes with the paint to get best coverage, and to not ruin fine details like the zimmerit paste, nuts & bolts, handles, etc. Overall I feel it did a fine job with the primed mini, the color looks good, and little to no detail has been lost. Grade A.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_NGzE_xfyLhisCyeUjGT80MmvtAaSbah8uk1aFLnQMnqHbyhtUlkX_Epn6QAytce3KfQE0RaTYLubKpX_Rw1p6Ngw9nseLPRtW1ZGfKJqmEDJ0h36bf99CxoTLJolg4eg8q1_68D0CQ/s1600/wing1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="155" j6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_NGzE_xfyLhisCyeUjGT80MmvtAaSbah8uk1aFLnQMnqHbyhtUlkX_Epn6QAytce3KfQE0RaTYLubKpX_Rw1p6Ngw9nseLPRtW1ZGfKJqmEDJ0h36bf99CxoTLJolg4eg8q1_68D0CQ/s320/wing1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Here we have what will be Panther "136" commanded by Scharfuhrer Hohnecker (kia). This is a different story, as this mini was already primed and basecoated, and had camoflage (red brown and olive green) applied... but it didn't really "pop", so the plan was to strip the mini in PineSol and try again. However, as we all know, the superglue that tends to hold these minis together also dissolved and one needs to re-apply all the bits and pieces. Again, time consuming and irritating. I'm a sucker for stowage, being a former tanker myself, and enjoy seeing the motley character of each vehicle. Simply, I didn't want to do it again becuase I like how it is now. I decided to experiment and see if the BattleFront basecoat can re-habilitate this mini. As we can see, it does a fair job, some detail is lost but then again it is its third coat of paint, but quite acceptable. The older paint is well covered, and I'm ready to bring this mini back to life. Grade: B+<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnaBTiTKmTTmeKXOD1ARPMk-F9PzQC5rzWdRviFK1xeNoTxnLoDEUyYgN3K6Dh5ZAXZS4NE55gQcTDbjFX9zFnWbgRC2FhLgzZ1xYdlTYs6Mp1kq4PntWZlpN8t_C65zxRp1vI6H0G9w/s1600/kubel1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" j6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnaBTiTKmTTmeKXOD1ARPMk-F9PzQC5rzWdRviFK1xeNoTxnLoDEUyYgN3K6Dh5ZAXZS4NE55gQcTDbjFX9zFnWbgRC2FhLgzZ1xYdlTYs6Mp1kq4PntWZlpN8t_C65zxRp1vI6H0G9w/s320/kubel1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Lastly, I was curious as to how this basecoating would look on minis primed in black. This schwimmwagen was primed and ready to go. The coverage is decent, and although it wasn't deliberate, there seems to be a consistent "shadowing" in the recessed areas. I may have been a little more conservative in the application of basecoat, but I do think I can do good work with this mini as it stands. Grade: A<br />
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There you have it, a positive review of BattleFront's "basecoat in a can"... for 'Panzer Yellow' at least. This is probably the most difficult base-color to work with (as opposed to various greens eh?), but I seem to have gotten good results. Be gentle and patient, it doesn't work miracles after a heavy hand, but it should do the trick for you. It had better, the stuff retails for about $12 a can! So far I can say its worth it, I primed and based a platoon of 5 panthers (these and three others) in less that 20 minutes. <br />
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Stay tuned for the finished products!!<br />
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Needless to say the stands were ruined... but not destroyed, and they now sit in a small vat of Pine Sol, awaiting rehabilitation. What is a painter to do but start over? So, here <u><em>now</em></u> is my first offering, a "brave Colonel" marker from the Confederate ranks.<br />
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The figure is a 15mm Peter Pig, and though some of their WW2 line scares me, I have been most impressed with their ACW offerings. Being an Old Glory convert, I do wish the poses were more diverse, but the robustness of the castings and the overall quality can not be over stated. Simply put, there is no "unusable figures, and the flash is at a minimum.<br />
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Personally, I enjoy the pose, reflecting the natural aggressivness of the Confederate officer... or at least that as passed forth by myth. <br />
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I look forward to placing this marker on the field against MacPhee's "damned yankees"... and sweeping them from the field.TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-7159995598690004152010-10-14T10:32:00.000-07:002010-10-14T10:32:27.437-07:00New Focus, New System, New Product...Well, the boys at Flashpoint seem to be on vacation, hiatus, or whatever, and the activity there has been minmal. Rumor has it there has been a major injury to one of the staff, and production problems in some lines they are about to release. I understand priorities, but you can't make a gamer wait indefinately... which is about what things have devolved to there at FP.<br />
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Soooo, I've gone back to the beginning, a noteworthy phrase if you are a fan of "The Princess Bride", back to the American Civil War. This is the era I began with, and painted my first 15mm miniatures for tabletop wargaming. I look back I can remember just how bad I sucked back then... real gawd-awful stuff initially. Yet, as I look back I can remember soaking up everything I learned, everything I saw, everything I heard from those who were established painters and helped me. I learned and got ideas from those who also were exploring the hobby alongside me. I remember how each session seemed a little better than the last. Each stand of figures were just a little bit better than the last... until I finally could field an army I was proud of and perhaps was a little better than those of my peers. <br />
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That was 15 years ago. I've long sold my 15mm ACW army (2 divisions of Rebels, 1 of Federals, based for Fire and Fury Brigade Series), and I'm finding myself rebuilding my Confederate forces from scratch, one lonely infantryman at a time. I'm lucky in that I do have some Old Glory 15mm to get things 'moving' again, but I'm finding that the quality of figures just isn't as I remember them. This could be because I have only the pack-dregs and used all the good castings years ago... or maybe they weren't that good to begin with.<br />
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I've always like Old Glory ACW figs, mainly for their diversity, and the dynamicism of their castings. Units of Old Glory were ALIVE!!, and not all necessarily at 'right-shoulder-shift'. There was that "curse" though, that 10-15% of figures that were mostly unusable due to casting errors. Sometimes one could take the figure with the "blobbed" head and making him a walking wounded inf'yman... sometimes the miscasting was just too much to repair. There ALWAYS seemed to be siginificant wastage, there ALWAYS seemed to be challenging flash and mold issues, and <u>ALWAYS</u> massive amounts of pewter crap to be carved off the bottoms of the bases. I guess that was the price one paid for reasonably miniatures that appeared on a battlefield instead of the drill field. This isn't the case anymore. The days of the 100-man bags are long gone, and 10-15% wastage for 50 men is unacceptable. Enter Peter Pig.<br />
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I know, I know... "my god look at those faces!!!" Yes sometimes the "Oinker" has some outrageous face sculpts, but I've really only seen the worst examples in his WW2 line. This always has been a stumbling point with me, I'll admit it, but when the metal meets the meat, I've been impressed. I've ordered some of his Vietnam line, and have been quite impressed. The sculpts are crisp, clean, and mostly flash-free. I haven't seen a "face" issue (where the figure's chin rests on his clavicle), and that prospect really doesn't concern me now. I am less pleased with the relative lack of variant sculpts (2-3 variants per pose) when compared to the dozen or so sculpts-per-pose with Old Glory, but this is where the painter can make them different with some planning and minimal execution.<br />
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With that said I've ordered my first battalion of Confederate Inf'y, and am painting them as fast as I can. Hopefully within the next week or so I can post some of the results. I look forward to them pushing 15mm "Billy Yanks" all round the field.<br />
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Till next time...TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-32877627270660018442010-09-18T11:09:00.000-07:002010-09-18T11:21:06.067-07:00New Mainforce VC, the 2nd platoon...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">After a busy summer, meaning too much "real life" to allow much quality painting time, I finally got to my workbench to crank out more MainForce VC to bedevil my friend Ken's tabletop US Marines.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIwRYN4ex9FJgOMkkpnrsyE3lCVQF4wpQ5MbE0bkxgHx4WYGK16YnBojl7Q68DM3e28Njv7W5Ewsxnjpdm4U2b41OwxN1NyzBD-ayb0lDurF1SgfoK1AodXVU_gVHVo-x8jme9_TL9Cg/s1600/2PltA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" qx="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIwRYN4ex9FJgOMkkpnrsyE3lCVQF4wpQ5MbE0bkxgHx4WYGK16YnBojl7Q68DM3e28Njv7W5Ewsxnjpdm4U2b41OwxN1NyzBD-ayb0lDurF1SgfoK1AodXVU_gVHVo-x8jme9_TL9Cg/s320/2PltA.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">My painting situation is unique, I use my breaks at work to paint... leaving me 15 minutes a pop, 1/2 hour daily to work on my figs. Not easy, but it helps to refine a painter's organization. Take only what you need, get started quickly, pack up quickly. The real challenge is not what and how to paint, but where to find the best light.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt17ez3KEtnxUv7Dk9qxHjyN_Qvk7iq6i7wP3uEEdsMtf5Me1TVEMis2GTKOiJzUdGOUzw4Fl1SWfvkzUZ82xLCRVlpKhGfE7IPJx9-sgWg4ReT7L1RKwKeQMNcJl3j2b0KW6-ORJY0w/s1600/2PltE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" qx="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt17ez3KEtnxUv7Dk9qxHjyN_Qvk7iq6i7wP3uEEdsMtf5Me1TVEMis2GTKOiJzUdGOUzw4Fl1SWfvkzUZ82xLCRVlpKhGfE7IPJx9-sgWg4ReT7L1RKwKeQMNcJl3j2b0KW6-ORJY0w/s320/2PltE.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">What I've done is prepped the figs by pose, and started with the first half (20 figs or so) and painted them up. It took about a week, but I think the results are decent enough. Here we have the command group figs, some squad leaders, and a few riflemen.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxGc5vmASGKm5tDQn7WLTmOOYMMq0QNM4gpg-elExy0_vZT00LZWNptxPZeXNuJG6nXRkJUmgYAj8ZIUbhktgSWA7S9Xy8xHeowUZar7GyrOZKlJOdWU8Fr3XZHX-Hh6MB5Cq27IXxHQ/s1600/2PltD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" qx="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxGc5vmASGKm5tDQn7WLTmOOYMMq0QNM4gpg-elExy0_vZT00LZWNptxPZeXNuJG6nXRkJUmgYAj8ZIUbhktgSWA7S9Xy8xHeowUZar7GyrOZKlJOdWU8Fr3XZHX-Hh6MB5Cq27IXxHQ/s320/2PltD.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">My first platoon, in keeping with conventional stereotypes, were black-pajama based, and I've since learned that this was generally not the case. Most MfVC personnel came more and more from PAVN troops as the war progressed, I wanted to reflect those uniform trends more accurately.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrbP1H2M2gxQqytEfeT8_ALzCduL_t5JUZefdDmaCsS8wT1TAc9SRBzmczfPk9bG4nqDuErm_RgrWSfVJSHIEry3DmtWyQJMx1O1z5dDhYUoIUzEoxRn2_Xqco1DSCdmZniJvw0463Fw/s1600/2PltC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" qx="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrbP1H2M2gxQqytEfeT8_ALzCduL_t5JUZefdDmaCsS8wT1TAc9SRBzmczfPk9bG4nqDuErm_RgrWSfVJSHIEry3DmtWyQJMx1O1z5dDhYUoIUzEoxRn2_Xqco1DSCdmZniJvw0463Fw/s320/2PltC.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I wanted to "uniform" the figs mostly in the green field uniform, but with a smattering of the older issue khaki PAVN uniforms, and some black PJ's. (I guess you can't defy convention completely) </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWi4nxczPauE4n6qC8vXWBk3Pvmr5BvQAMwZ_ecgtaiqjVs-l3O330RoF3ztmYp_FOOz6qpQatPr92zd_3JsD7V2DFXDPpwqe2pWOnHEo90X6igbfas0GjmuR393A6pZG95_n8havg0w/s1600/2PltL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" qx="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWi4nxczPauE4n6qC8vXWBk3Pvmr5BvQAMwZ_ecgtaiqjVs-l3O330RoF3ztmYp_FOOz6qpQatPr92zd_3JsD7V2DFXDPpwqe2pWOnHEo90X6igbfas0GjmuR393A6pZG95_n8havg0w/s320/2PltL.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I've recently stepped away from using metalllics for gunmetal, opting instead for grays. I thing the contrast works better, and isn't quite so gaudy. I'll save the metallics for the bayonets when I eventually get back to ACW figures and gaming.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyIUZOppo-2OfSoyrVz035tE7w2dgWTjVHxfwRp-sF_S6cBA7WlG7wAWeNV5M3pj85yG9t-xS7PN6uh0ZBR_bQH5kzVdtCooB5kCGihb_Q6Rv20fXKjaOlUvhvE0CtBsqeXP2CCKKQrQ/s1600/2PltO.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" qx="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyIUZOppo-2OfSoyrVz035tE7w2dgWTjVHxfwRp-sF_S6cBA7WlG7wAWeNV5M3pj85yG9t-xS7PN6uh0ZBR_bQH5kzVdtCooB5kCGihb_Q6Rv20fXKjaOlUvhvE0CtBsqeXP2CCKKQrQ/s320/2PltO.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I guess the "cartoony" style of painting is becoming all the rage, and I must admit that at the 15mm level it works well... at a distance. I do love the look from the table, but close up the results are less impressive in my opinon. What I've decided upon is a less intense "cartoon" style, drybrushing the uniforms, and using higher contrast methods on the skin, weapons, & equipment. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggb9W-6oHMZ7jK96KDvi6cASkI5VNilcLcVt22SGh7ZEz09v2jybJJjdVTzkb-6mbcpQd0nEguqy2KPPC_RivYCgBarWPq3detKJPlkEbHGV2p9Mn0JLPEkmgkg9eifpsnsLOyiU3hTg/s1600/2PltB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" qx="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggb9W-6oHMZ7jK96KDvi6cASkI5VNilcLcVt22SGh7ZEz09v2jybJJjdVTzkb-6mbcpQd0nEguqy2KPPC_RivYCgBarWPq3detKJPlkEbHGV2p9Mn0JLPEkmgkg9eifpsnsLOyiU3hTg/s320/2PltB.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I gotta redo the face on this Platoon Leader fig... but here you can see the drybrushed uniform style.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAV1kF1avKTY39pBSAzXTG1kT1GQfIKdhPhw-yB9cJ1Sg4oBlTTBRc8mvNbtyhpjG2Pv1lxKX75lfzf7rbwsmUdNzPSJ2xHr7jxICKkCp6oGgmUlHSAnAYDkOVdn7xpeBtSnmqbgxbug/s1600/2PltK.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" qx="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAV1kF1avKTY39pBSAzXTG1kT1GQfIKdhPhw-yB9cJ1Sg4oBlTTBRc8mvNbtyhpjG2Pv1lxKX75lfzf7rbwsmUdNzPSJ2xHr7jxICKkCp6oGgmUlHSAnAYDkOVdn7xpeBtSnmqbgxbug/s320/2PltK.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Another example with the green fatigue shirt, black slouch hat and pants. To highlight the black, I've taken to the inspiration of DC comics. I remember as a boy that the Batman always had his cape based black and highlighted in a dark blue. I've used that inspiration and am using a very dark sea gray as the highlight color for the black pajama uniform areas.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7AweHuf2HvwCTi_vuZHqa5nEQYRd2wOviOAOUYX7Dsl0mvwB4hx67NRI2mRKg4NV_t8_oixcjGdr5CEGWN0bi6-hW3EveOmLwjA7Lielrj29Kfc7CUuinHkFVLi8UVBdGvHRuNPsRew/s1600/2PltJ.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" qx="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7AweHuf2HvwCTi_vuZHqa5nEQYRd2wOviOAOUYX7Dsl0mvwB4hx67NRI2mRKg4NV_t8_oixcjGdr5CEGWN0bi6-hW3EveOmLwjA7Lielrj29Kfc7CUuinHkFVLi8UVBdGvHRuNPsRew/s320/2PltJ.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Here we see the higher contrast "cartoon" style with the face and weapon.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0bTJY_fZrfTvboEPiGfZaAqcAOT9uWoaXiQqgcosrEg8E8bzbjoFSiR5yLSNZTAARTGdDwGPxRyHIMIFiuClnfoOrMRDZy_uKZudd_UWC85G_wBGR30qrWXvb-cKl_TPT_P16qQyfIQ/s1600/2PltG.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" qx="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0bTJY_fZrfTvboEPiGfZaAqcAOT9uWoaXiQqgcosrEg8E8bzbjoFSiR5yLSNZTAARTGdDwGPxRyHIMIFiuClnfoOrMRDZy_uKZudd_UWC85G_wBGR30qrWXvb-cKl_TPT_P16qQyfIQ/s320/2PltG.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Imagine "impressionist" art style as presented on a 15mm canvas. One really only needs to give the impression of figure detail at a normal gaming distance. From a 3-foot range the high-contrast method can be striking, close in... not so much. For some reason the words "circus clown" comes to mind.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc8YcfbR9Qly9hY4KD-TsPV3GuNPMAoRn3AXCLIG53r818Ep0oQLhmkiJDI7SNP4bRSQvyd3NSMv24FLFJHkyOqMv5TB8h-Ul6cz7YTCBnbOGM8wENnMO-SWuMwleNCu3KqksHFXOKag/s1600/2PltH.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" qx="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc8YcfbR9Qly9hY4KD-TsPV3GuNPMAoRn3AXCLIG53r818Ep0oQLhmkiJDI7SNP4bRSQvyd3NSMv24FLFJHkyOqMv5TB8h-Ul6cz7YTCBnbOGM8wENnMO-SWuMwleNCu3KqksHFXOKag/s320/2PltH.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Here we have a squad/cell leader. After being a slow convert, I favor this new style for 15mm gaming figures. The "cartoon" method, I feel, is most effective on figures (not vehicles & such) and yields the greatest amount of depth and visual contrast for the scale at "standard" viewing distances. That being said, for larger scales, 25mm plus, I doubt that this method would be as effective. I have my eye on 28mm modern US infantry from Empress Minis... perhaps I'll have to put this theory to the test.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">So there you have it, the first batch of the 2nd Platoon. My intent is to finish the figures and then mass-base in a rice paddy environment. </div>TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-35004132546608996912010-05-28T13:09:00.000-07:002010-05-28T13:09:38.515-07:00Update on battlefront Hueys, trials and solutions...As y'all may remember, I received a three-pack of Battlefront Huey "slick" helicopters, which I still consider absolutely the best available. I've been working off and on getting the slick ready for the table, and ready to present to you fine people. Alas, it has been put on the back burner as I rush to finish my MainForce VC platoons. Since the VC did little with Hueys other than shoot at them, the impetus has lessened a bit. Add to this, my four year old son is infatuated with my helicopters and in his enthusiasm snapped-off the tail rotor blades. It's fixable, but just another in a series of delays. AND, I've just found a possible solution to the problem of the upper, green "sun-roof" windows above the pilots. More on that later.<br />
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Stay tuned.... I hear that "snap-snap-snap" of Huey blades at low power as they power-down to make a landing at "LZ Tigertanker".<br />
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-outTIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-36259074865059849602010-05-27T18:09:00.000-07:002010-05-27T18:09:55.356-07:00VietCong sniper marker...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I've been working on these puppies off and on since they arrived in the mail... and every time I handle them (especially the snipers, seen here), I can't wait to use them! Here we have two VietCong insurgents "popping up" out of a well camoflagued "spider hole" and engaging presumably "enemies of the Revolution".</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdjctSCHJpIg_eVKbf9uELsP4fdBDyjer_jKRqV7JCxl4wLIxAgVESoL8XbVAKWw1HNcOVo_f4Ax5I5UxyNKaJqWdn9yOwADw7pca7L7zB6ZYcNUiEuto70ShYnQfnpIR1GBd9J2ADwQ/s1600/snipers2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gu="true" height="127" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdjctSCHJpIg_eVKbf9uELsP4fdBDyjer_jKRqV7JCxl4wLIxAgVESoL8XbVAKWw1HNcOVo_f4Ax5I5UxyNKaJqWdn9yOwADw7pca7L7zB6ZYcNUiEuto70ShYnQfnpIR1GBd9J2ADwQ/s200/snipers2.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Pretty simple and "straight-up" painting techniques. I like the good base/highlight contrast on the palm leaves, I may decide to add highlight colors to the uniforms. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgEOzmEOlM52dFOeztLphWCOFX8MbK-KLB35cLYcAdpM6Kk_n0qZrEdJjLTeUYLM8UrNFym9_dHRevXBGJsAy_TH0Cp31ButBln0TwYGsxqW2B9TDbmzc9LKYvvF7C8kM9r6cay5wL8A/s1600/snipers3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gu="true" height="125" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgEOzmEOlM52dFOeztLphWCOFX8MbK-KLB35cLYcAdpM6Kk_n0qZrEdJjLTeUYLM8UrNFym9_dHRevXBGJsAy_TH0Cp31ButBln0TwYGsxqW2B9TDbmzc9LKYvvF7C8kM9r6cay5wL8A/s200/snipers3.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-4091865325063292742010-05-25T17:55:00.000-07:002010-05-28T13:10:20.731-07:00Flashpoint Miniatures USMC Fireteam 1968...Sorry for the delay folks, again, real life has this nasty propensity to intrude on our beloved hobby. Before I showcased a US Marine trooper in Vietnam, circa 1968 or so, as a test base for both Negro skin tones and Vietnam-era uniform painting in general. Here are the aggregate results...<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5475376825723657634" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3cFj35jcklDBfedz7YW97ijzBl692O3kH5soriGygwvKIJei91UYtXJMxmNOaNySQHi4LFaKWf1k-Lz3rKfi4uVCbmA8fitBCBxqpiK94Vo_ZPYtgyPY5FP0RIybpcX2xurUZEDqY4Q/s320/USMCfireteam6.JPG" style="display: block; height: 74px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /><br />
I painted these up for my friend Ken, also as a cheap test bed for what I wanted to accomplish when I buy my 1st Cavalry Division company. For the uniform base I used Tamiya "Olive Green", with a "US Medium Tac Green" by PollyScale. I found this a darker contrast against the helmet cover, and the equipment pouches (canteens, ammo, etc).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtAWmJjExXll9ktbJn4xLvdHg_d5QEwMZPzZ6xGMpMNPAy5W0CIExDar61d5zUNckPBv7H5gUYz6vUonTvCAHT1G75KTGydsxD9PmPuNCbpGukN02Jz5kpSDkDMogJa10qoXV2dUNP6w/s1600/USMCfireteam7.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5475376840227224946" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtAWmJjExXll9ktbJn4xLvdHg_d5QEwMZPzZ6xGMpMNPAy5W0CIExDar61d5zUNckPBv7H5gUYz6vUonTvCAHT1G75KTGydsxD9PmPuNCbpGukN02Jz5kpSDkDMogJa10qoXV2dUNP6w/s320/USMCfireteam7.JPG" style="display: block; height: 117px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">For the pouches and such I used "US Olive Drab" highlighted by Panzer Olive Green, both by PollyScale. For the weapons, although I am less satified by the sculpt of the gun stocks, the front sight-posts look good, as does everything else that suggests that these men are carrying an M-16... except for the guy with the M-14. Stocks were straight-up "Chaos Black", the gunmetal was "US Sea Gray", highlighted by "British Sea Grey" (PollyS).<br />
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<div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdeVzXYEamQ2OIowDfPeLKWA-u4rIR7mcjKOkPaVnUp_UEyxTdnHzU6xJuQ-1Pz21kpeQPl1G1RvOQ-XflcbQQfn6_7ANbrt8dBqjLcBW4SWo2mdqMZkF6o_gCOv_dA-Xk4mhlLPgXzQ/s1600/USMCfireteam5.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5475376820429725346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdeVzXYEamQ2OIowDfPeLKWA-u4rIR7mcjKOkPaVnUp_UEyxTdnHzU6xJuQ-1Pz21kpeQPl1G1RvOQ-XflcbQQfn6_7ANbrt8dBqjLcBW4SWo2mdqMZkF6o_gCOv_dA-Xk4mhlLPgXzQ/s320/USMCfireteam5.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; height: 126px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a> </div><div><br />
I kept the "Graveyard Earth" (GW) flak jackets highlighted by "US Olive Drab" (PollyS). I still haven't gathered the courage to highlight Negro flesh... I'd just hate to ruin the figure with a bad color choice.</div><div><br />
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</div><div><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5475376708818222850" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqtBY__EXeEnn0suPJ_1boCvjmspQ8hDgIMU0GJD2_ZxSfde_pL9OUfSS58LsuyojZjyEGV5ax7gNck3ahuZKsgvBz1gmG9S94p1a6BZtX08crJ6wd433Daj1JECDuNQycn161sGiftA/s320/USMCfireteam3.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; height: 129px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></div><div></div><div></div><div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">All in all I think the Flashpoint figures are superior in most respects, and are the best 15mm Vietnam range you will find at this time. Some work could be done to improve gunstocks, but they are far better, IMHO, than what Battlefront has to offer in this range. </div></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNGgxFLfIH7FBcTCSg-pem7yk7PazbIdxkvU1SKnbfhZo60Rp_hkH-kxgVJ2Ae4SKtYFMraaac_QSXhyIkgHGXsJcaDsFcy58QzkyqOT_jAsVQCZKyMSaegmczY5tbDJ4FHvo1JEowVg/s1600/USMCfireteam.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="138" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5475376578429895266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNGgxFLfIH7FBcTCSg-pem7yk7PazbIdxkvU1SKnbfhZo60Rp_hkH-kxgVJ2Ae4SKtYFMraaac_QSXhyIkgHGXsJcaDsFcy58QzkyqOT_jAsVQCZKyMSaegmczY5tbDJ4FHvo1JEowVg/s320/USMCfireteam.JPG" style="display: block; height: 138px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" width="320" /></a></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div></div>TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-1621512631854406532010-04-19T14:41:00.001-07:002010-04-19T15:08:50.679-07:00Such adoo about NEGRO FLESH!!!When I first posted the question... the legitimate question of just best to paint the flesh of, I guess technically, an African-American, I was overwhelmed at first of the petty PC bullpocky that came as a response from several individuals on a certain New Zealand figures forum we all know and love. Needless to say I was a bit pissed about the reaction. One would've thought I'd used the "other N-word". Let's just say there were a few too many assumptions about my intentions and a bit too much grandstanding in a forum.<br /><br />Anyway... what I have for you today is a test subject for an upcoming project. Flashpoint Miniatures USMC rifleman in "15mm". I am painting a Corps fireteam as a mutual favor for my friend Ken, and I get a chance to test color schemes on someone else's figs. Brilliant wouldn't you say? <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs9moEb81ci2WrHXEZVjHhxfprCf3vc_74SYr8MdK-_1esLh21rtZ6CHiMplSMOToLxfktZwvVU70sBjndY-NMHpgmYznq-8OASZLbTNfpU7Hbx3mnM7rBDf7bCkoTbK_KuSQrPxYaDQ/s1600/rifleman4.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 238px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461967693353863794" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs9moEb81ci2WrHXEZVjHhxfprCf3vc_74SYr8MdK-_1esLh21rtZ6CHiMplSMOToLxfktZwvVU70sBjndY-NMHpgmYznq-8OASZLbTNfpU7Hbx3mnM7rBDf7bCkoTbK_KuSQrPxYaDQ/s320/rifleman4.JPG" /></a> Here we see the back end of a Marine rifleman in flak vest and m16, about to throw a hand grenade at some target to his front. As a uniform base color I used PollyScale "US medium tactical green", and "German panzer olive green" as uniform highlight. This photo is a bit dark and the following pix may do a better job illustrating the two colors. The REAL challenge, I thought, would be the best way to paint the flak vest. Neatly every period photograph of Vietnam marines that stupid vest appears as a dirty brown about 99% of the time. I tried to replicate this by basing the vest in Citadel "graveyard earth", with a highlight on the raised areas of PollyS "olive drab". I think that the effect really works well, as the olive really does much to mute the brown.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7OM4u8D5Ch6LjI9ONusy4-BWS2GZvEUtfl8RTm0i-NWtq-kbQ5nPZTSg0x8dBoyYOXmSDMtDZDPTcK6bbpKc07x2si3nbM4MWtWWRODRmhfDSNUHvye7saHpdUVe-QHI_si_srFlJow/s1600/rifleman3.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 288px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461967576398517314" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7OM4u8D5Ch6LjI9ONusy4-BWS2GZvEUtfl8RTm0i-NWtq-kbQ5nPZTSg0x8dBoyYOXmSDMtDZDPTcK6bbpKc07x2si3nbM4MWtWWRODRmhfDSNUHvye7saHpdUVe-QHI_si_srFlJow/s320/rifleman3.JPG" /></a> Here is a front view, with the m16 in focus. On the recievers, front sight, and barrel I used PollyS "US sea blue" with a highlight of "British sea grey". The stocks were Citadel "chaos black". The helmet is turning out to be a greater challenge than first realised. I used PollyS "camo green" for the cover, which is quite a bit lighter/brighter than my uniform colors. Followed by blotches of "graveyard earth" and Tamiya "olive green". I next gave the helmet a wash of the "camo green" to help mute the additional colors. This effect is a work in progress.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAl9Z6x4RxyhvZ1ffUfwbkLPCVyG0saRhtyevA7-1e9C4PhdjRRX-kmu0XsxuVDcnPKa9IeIsFj_Fk9uljsyf3GzX_Z2h41bI2hhgS3RpdlOloQnK0NFUDdR_9Lw2F0D0JhRXSfHd6Mg/s1600/rifleman2.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 282px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461967416045016754" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAl9Z6x4RxyhvZ1ffUfwbkLPCVyG0saRhtyevA7-1e9C4PhdjRRX-kmu0XsxuVDcnPKa9IeIsFj_Fk9uljsyf3GzX_Z2h41bI2hhgS3RpdlOloQnK0NFUDdR_9Lw2F0D0JhRXSfHd6Mg/s320/rifleman2.JPG" /></a><br />The web-gear is "panzer olive green" and the boots are "olive drab". There is much still to finish, but I wanted to show my progress as of yet.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtV8F2gj2M5HthKR9z3Tuj1GmKlpTsEF4j3hG10tvFEqR0bBpy-QErS4FqudnpRdV5zcvMuryt-BqP2nOm3O1v-jxnSXr9EiBnWK7ltUUF2diVEOs8YlwodjQ6P4D1y6dX7pPfKj7JSA/s1600/rifleman.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 292px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461967291395614466" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtV8F2gj2M5HthKR9z3Tuj1GmKlpTsEF4j3hG10tvFEqR0bBpy-QErS4FqudnpRdV5zcvMuryt-BqP2nOm3O1v-jxnSXr9EiBnWK7ltUUF2diVEOs8YlwodjQ6P4D1y6dX7pPfKj7JSA/s320/rifleman.JPG" /></a> Now for the gorilla in the room, the flesh tone. I used Citadel "scorched earth" as a base, I have yet to choose a highlight. I am a bit anxious to try, I'm almost satified with leaving the flesh unhighlighted, the "scorched earth" doing such a great job as a base. However, I do want the face and hands to "pop", so stay tuned.</div><div> </div><div>I don't forsee making these troops "dirty" with too much weathering, although I may experiement with wet trousers at some point.</div><div> </div><div>Love some feedback. </div><div> </div><div>-out<br /><br /><br /><br /></div><div></div></div></div>TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-26630345750157874762010-04-03T13:38:00.000-07:002010-04-03T13:47:04.116-07:00The Air Cav is on the way...FINALLY!!!! After a very long wait I can begin in all likelihood the "lynchpin" of any Vietnam gaming effort, the Huey platoon. My gaming fiend-partner Ken and I began going down the SE Asian path well over a year & a half ago, but paused indefinately because of the distinct lack of 15mm helecopters on the hobby market. Even the Revell 1/100 models were about all dried up! Honestly, if one can't model an air insertion... there really is no point to the effort.<br /><br /><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 230px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5456014033142475634" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFgcYio4T3fpnZgQz5bRrBdLaIjun8fMpWndCOZQf7x617MazWw4JEwlNVPCHuE2RD9kW6L-AVeM_Wn2Jj4ALQ8T0M9yAI9G6HuZWys-DpBQR-nwc9yeU1EADLcg_QjtMVQ8zwH1iaRQ/s320/Huey1partz.jpg" /><br /><br />What we have here is graphic manefest of what will go into this huey (and the two others that came with the set) So far so good, and for $20 US per helecopter, I hope they are worth it.<br /><br />Stay tuned!TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-63148282030083511572010-03-27T02:55:00.000-07:002010-03-27T04:00:41.316-07:00Local VC 82mm Mortar section coming up to snuff...<blockquote><p align="center"></p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifJsannEm4OcYFLBGMLbjs9A80GyqaEPoOSbi3ygZftPw6g__Hmnfwoa6Ozse03_j6EI1EXa0Avi8dNR97OkGbgklAefIMtXSGZLpaToYFSp6mmuNMev8kS7RQPH3l7okgV9n5wyqINA/s1600/Mortar81mm.jpg"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifJsannEm4OcYFLBGMLbjs9A80GyqaEPoOSbi3ygZftPw6g__Hmnfwoa6Ozse03_j6EI1EXa0Avi8dNR97OkGbgklAefIMtXSGZLpaToYFSp6mmuNMev8kS7RQPH3l7okgV9n5wyqINA/s1600/Mortar81mm.jpg"></blockquote><blockquote><p align="center"></p></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifJsannEm4OcYFLBGMLbjs9A80GyqaEPoOSbi3ygZftPw6g__Hmnfwoa6Ozse03_j6EI1EXa0Avi8dNR97OkGbgklAefIMtXSGZLpaToYFSp6mmuNMev8kS7RQPH3l7okgV9n5wyqINA/s1600/Mortar81mm.jpg"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifJsannEm4OcYFLBGMLbjs9A80GyqaEPoOSbi3ygZftPw6g__Hmnfwoa6Ozse03_j6EI1EXa0Avi8dNR97OkGbgklAefIMtXSGZLpaToYFSp6mmuNMev8kS7RQPH3l7okgV9n5wyqINA/s1600/Mortar81mm.jpg"></blockquote><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 307px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5453261950688347890" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifJsannEm4OcYFLBGMLbjs9A80GyqaEPoOSbi3ygZftPw6g__Hmnfwoa6Ozse03_j6EI1EXa0Avi8dNR97OkGbgklAefIMtXSGZLpaToYFSp6mmuNMev8kS7RQPH3l7okgV9n5wyqINA/s320/Mortar81mm.jpg" /></a><br /><div align="center">With the wife in New Orleans and the kids with their grandparents... this leaves me "bookoo" time to paint!! My normal painting strategy is to have three or four projects going at once, so while one dries properly I can improve the time on something else. Right now I'm working on MainForce VC rifles, Local VC mortars, Local VC heavy machine guns, and have just put aside VC sappers in favor of doing a VC painting tutorial on a rifle cell. Whew... lots to do!</div><div align="center"><br /></div><div align="center">Right now, let's get a look at the VC mortar team from Flashpoint Miniatures out of New Zealand. What we have here is a three-man team, a gunner, ammo bearer, and security. The VC were frugal with their manpower, and since in all likelihood the section would only fire a limited amount of ammunition, or a quick "fire and run" mission, there is little need for large ammo stocks lying around or many hands to uncase and pass ammunition.<br /><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcvaSDjHWm5EaK6ih1UzV6nfwTVr5bkHxbSoe54jyxIpziOYA_AFefyKfjDIIFIt4ElymebGDAU6efx1cgr2jpW8pxtSD4moEOrA6_nppMiwHLuCPth4aW9BAb4lT5sf_L8hUSDgQ-OQ/s1600/LvcMRTRtm1.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 190px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5453261853057738338" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcvaSDjHWm5EaK6ih1UzV6nfwTVr5bkHxbSoe54jyxIpziOYA_AFefyKfjDIIFIt4ElymebGDAU6efx1cgr2jpW8pxtSD4moEOrA6_nppMiwHLuCPth4aW9BAb4lT5sf_L8hUSDgQ-OQ/s320/LvcMRTRtm1.jpg" /></a><br /><div align="center">I wish to focus on two aspects, first, the mortar weapon itself. I have mixed feelings on the sculpt but all in all they are positive. The tube is sculpted and molded well, the bi-pod has a little to be desired, but its very workable. I mean... who is going to obcess over a 15mm mortar bi-pod? OK we will but that is where our painting and basing magic needs to come into play. What I DO like is its relative size to the crew figures. Its huge, and honestly after doing some research the 81/82mm mortar was not exactly a small thing. Having been exposed to Old Glory 15mm mortars (which seem to be the size of mechanical pencil lead), and Battlefront (which seem to flip-flop from small to large and back every other year) I am pleased with what Flashpoint has offered here.<br /></div><div align="center"><br />To make up for sculpting shortcomings (which again are very minor) one needs to be creative with their basing. My plan is to model the mortar dug in, in a relatively shallow firing pit. I glued the assembled mortar directly to the naked stand and marked (the circle) where the edges of the firing pit was going to be.</div><div align="center"><br />I routinely add texture to my bases to A) compensate somewhat for the thickness of the figure base, and B) to have some sort of eye-catching detail in concert with the figures, guns, etc. THis is accomplished after "setting the scene" on your base and all your elements are placed and glued down, a healthy amount of PVA glue and railroad ballast is laid onto the stand. I next take a 60/40% water-glue solution and coat the ballast again. This will create a 'seal' over the tiny stones and it will take quite a serious jarring/mishandling to knock the stone off the base. Otherwise, every time the stand is handled in game or in transit you will loose your "ground" so to speak.</div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjObyMrNLvxuy60xr8dIBim31Khqlc0hi6qYGvoCjDdwYUn8c4e7flm14r7Oe8fU-2fnbxAei_J0OX8uTcZc6Q3PeqQOcSaVBCQh2b-1tURXDu2yXipoaZiSkCxVNLkrsfF0KTBY2irzw/s1600/LvcMRTRtm2.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 220px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5453261738821113010" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjObyMrNLvxuy60xr8dIBim31Khqlc0hi6qYGvoCjDdwYUn8c4e7flm14r7Oe8fU-2fnbxAei_J0OX8uTcZc6Q3PeqQOcSaVBCQh2b-1tURXDu2yXipoaZiSkCxVNLkrsfF0KTBY2irzw/s320/LvcMRTRtm2.jpg" /></a><br /><div><div><div align="center"><div>Normally after the 60/40 coat dries I paint with very watered town earth/soil colors and add static grass, bushes, etc to complete the effect. In this instance, I will add a second helping of ballast immediately around the edges of the pit to suggest recently and hastily dug earth. If this were a FwF project I would consider a ring of sandbags... I'm banking that the VC wasted little time on such luxuries.</div><br /><br /><div>At any rate this is just a small taste. I'll be sure to post photos on how the final project has evolved.</div><br /><br /><div>Stay tuned!!</div></div></div></div>TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-50760744586680313022010-03-25T18:03:00.000-07:002010-03-27T03:58:43.883-07:00Flashpoint Minatures Vietnam Range...<div><div><br /> </div><div>Yeah, and as luck would have it I draw the VC. Here's a little taste of things to come...</div><p align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxtbd6rX1GD_UcVhFSgYI1X2dDNuwqfOeZAMB9k_rsX7s-bO_kVjr4S2Llehumiut5YAPPU_sa5hulCi9bhyphenhyphentfxuagH_AeFhF95ZM3VskcJea_w2lGBfFifMIjs1mhw1nZpBcLy9ysVA/s1600/VCpltcmd.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 269px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5452746053159979106" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxtbd6rX1GD_UcVhFSgYI1X2dDNuwqfOeZAMB9k_rsX7s-bO_kVjr4S2Llehumiut5YAPPU_sa5hulCi9bhyphenhyphentfxuagH_AeFhF95ZM3VskcJea_w2lGBfFifMIjs1mhw1nZpBcLy9ysVA/s320/VCpltcmd.JPG" /></a></p><div> </div><div> </div><div><br /><br /></div><div></div><div><br /><br /></div><div></div><div><br /><br /></div><div><br /><br /></div><div><br /><br /><br /><br /> </div><div><br /></div><div><div align="center">The Platoon Commander (along with the Political Officer looking smug to the left-rear), and a runner. The MainForce VC didn't have radio communications for echelons below Battalion level. Shoe leather (or in this case old tires) was the mode and method.</div><br /></div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgApRxFxEp6MIDJLh8TUYzqrSoaUIidTuVymOD8NaCnjnxx9ljVMlHde0OiU89w1YrzBsMCk2Bs_5yFIOFgyDPvFtM5wBKKsLgK-JeZeK_fRvwIyCXucaVSqvkt3yrOtQK7HTt2ewHQ9A/s1600/VCcell.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 130px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5452742860814566226" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgApRxFxEp6MIDJLh8TUYzqrSoaUIidTuVymOD8NaCnjnxx9ljVMlHde0OiU89w1YrzBsMCk2Bs_5yFIOFgyDPvFtM5wBKKsLgK-JeZeK_fRvwIyCXucaVSqvkt3yrOtQK7HTt2ewHQ9A/s320/VCcell.JPG" /></a><br />Lurking through (what will be brush) are three of Hanoi's finest... as part of an B40 equipped cell. Much to my surprise, PAVN forces made up a majority of MainForce VC units as early as 1966-67.<br /></div><div><br /><br /></div><div></div><br /><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx8dFY_0GVK5gEDv7T22El4IeEEE0IUq4wjobFypYQZNjx1GGgRKuTuOHSkN5m4FfP-Z9mzz1l99YUjXPze3lpz1LQXK-vR31kDnLFU8fxeZonsmLlXVMHXSfLSOmiDssZUezjo2ffkg/s1600/VCcell2.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 230px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5452742921842194866" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx8dFY_0GVK5gEDv7T22El4IeEEE0IUq4wjobFypYQZNjx1GGgRKuTuOHSkN5m4FfP-Z9mzz1l99YUjXPze3lpz1LQXK-vR31kDnLFU8fxeZonsmLlXVMHXSfLSOmiDssZUezjo2ffkg/s320/VCcell2.JPG" /></a><br /><br />The "black pajamas" uniform was mainly reserved for LocalForce VC and militia units... the "farmers by day and fighters by night". The MainForce VC were the dedicated anti-government force in South Vietnam, just as dedicated and professional (if not as well manned, trained, or equipped) as the NVA.<br /></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div><br /><br /> </div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI5pdYkqY4WmcU0Zr5BZy713vuBQvMWhyphenhyphenQu0Cc_FKsLySLyf8kLbmlLq8AtKupOhRsRZ4V1Ss9EmV6rVBgnc31vWTwE895MPfI2SdXK816h-1d7qvapcXH8MJzIIB23G8aFjXUaM45Yg/s1600/LVCmg.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 115px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5452742653788042130" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI5pdYkqY4WmcU0Zr5BZy713vuBQvMWhyphenhyphenQu0Cc_FKsLySLyf8kLbmlLq8AtKupOhRsRZ4V1Ss9EmV6rVBgnc31vWTwE895MPfI2SdXK816h-1d7qvapcXH8MJzIIB23G8aFjXUaM45Yg/s320/LVCmg.JPG" /></a><br />Lastly we have 4 LocalForce VC assistant heavy machine gunners / ammo bearers. I was saddened to learn that when Saigon fell, and the Communists had their victory, those VC who did sacrifice so much for what they thought they wanted were in the end betrayed by the Hanoi government. In the end the Vietnam War WAS an aggressive war of the North.</div><div> </div><div></div><div>Stay tuned for more...<br /><br /></div><br /><div></div></div></div>TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-39264964727206710982009-12-26T20:50:00.000-08:002009-12-26T20:59:30.973-08:00Good things to look forward too...<img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 225px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419774831095064514" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiRg1lW85B3Gy7Vs6cd2waU6TPkcvGZglvXi6SvFnz1dx9iSGoXc5dKGVhJQKbSR3G5OZVmOGOqa7b0cYbH-0CrCge6zC6f8rxE9dd6xgvf6auIcWUAtm58yh2qvc5121lBY6ZCEg_Hg/s320/Liamskirmishers.jpg" /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCygYxQlOwGdp_Q3ErEvyqUeOWbFzU8-b3VPSsOX6bOaCIKxFS99DGpS73gjYWdlkyXeiyghqY5oeMok-L7ZlOB4KwoZEIUePC8cSkHKMGOlpJLIJeLy0wtrbOWol63lejEc2Uftufhg/s1600-h/liamskirmishers2.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 139px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419774968441570802" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCygYxQlOwGdp_Q3ErEvyqUeOWbFzU8-b3VPSsOX6bOaCIKxFS99DGpS73gjYWdlkyXeiyghqY5oeMok-L7ZlOB4KwoZEIUePC8cSkHKMGOlpJLIJeLy0wtrbOWol63lejEc2Uftufhg/s320/liamskirmishers2.jpg" /></a><br /><div><br />I wish I could take the credit, and I assure you all that these photos are unstaged by me, but when I saw my 4-year-old son deploying a skirmish-line with the toy soldiers Liam discovered in his stocking 3-hours before... I knew I'll have a good gaming partner in a few years. </div><div> </div><div>Merry Christmas to all!!<br /></div><div></div>TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-6082501030528255372009-08-21T05:32:00.000-07:002009-08-21T05:46:50.794-07:00Is He Still Alive???Uhhh, YEAH... just busy with a large dose of real-life.<br /><br />Actually , I'm here to report that I am painting (again), Second World War (still), primarily for Flames of War system (still), but this time I'm working on the Soviets.<br /><br />Small little triumph here, unfortunately no pix yet, but I think I have solved a dilemma I was having about the proper shade of Soviet uniforms.<br /><br />Nearly everything I have seen, prior to the introduction of the m-1943 uniform, has been done in a myriad of colors ranging from yellows, to browns. Khaki (more or less), or a light brown seems to be the "default" setting for most Soviet figures of WW2. That REAAALLY didn't sit too well with me, especially after watching "Enemy at the Gates". Yes, I am blaming Jude Law for my conundrum, but let me explain.<br /><br />If one watches the film and pays particularly close attention to the Soviet uniforms, they do not appear to be khaki, or brown at all. It is a hard color to describe... kind of a "greenish mustard" type of thing. When one peruses the Soviet re-enactor and/or re-enactor vendor sites, they find pretty much the same thing. Perhaps even MORE greenish as the photos generally depict brand new or close to new clothing and not serviceworn just yet. After a bit of searching, and dreading the possibility of having to experiment and mix my own concoction, I found CITADEL's "Gretchen Green". When layed against a black-primed figure, a subdued yellow with a green tint is what you will find. So far, I seem to get just enough of both colors to make it work for me.<br /><br />Now, this is all well and good but some photography should be in order. It is, and it will soon be on it's way. Stay tuned militia fans...TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-29054176711085667592008-11-29T00:37:00.000-08:002008-11-29T01:22:01.943-08:00Napoleonic Bavarian test stands...<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ4aUX_rtvQJ0JqS5NVydp_3TA3zJKoM3OTy2wflOHWerkhHemPy7lLfdmDM3zecbo8g5rjymYlqNfZZ3EpGL6fxvBbsI-L5I0N5ecrAvHQPwtlxKTrPMXQVBCTdkRG7WZhp6CJCfHVA/s1600-h/Bavarty_LF5b.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274005913706399282" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ4aUX_rtvQJ0JqS5NVydp_3TA3zJKoM3OTy2wflOHWerkhHemPy7lLfdmDM3zecbo8g5rjymYlqNfZZ3EpGL6fxvBbsI-L5I0N5ecrAvHQPwtlxKTrPMXQVBCTdkRG7WZhp6CJCfHVA/s200/Bavarty_LF5b.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div>Keeping up with the Germanic theme, I'm displaying two 'test' stands of 15mm Bavarians for various Napoleonic Wars systems.</div><br /><div></div><br /><div><div><div><div><div><div>The Kingdom of Bavaria was a major ally to Napoleon's Campaigns, and a significant contributor to the Emperor's war effort. Posted today is the beginning of Napoleon's VII Corps of the 1812 Campaign into Russia.<br /></div><div>For your approval... what we have here are Old Glory 15mm Bavarian gunners and cannon (12 lb and 6-8 lb). Soon after the two allies cemented their relationship off the field, the Bavarians made strides to become more uniform with their new friends, taking on new organizations, tactics, and even uniforms more akin to the French.</div><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJMpswC1KuGFwfeZG5If8j1kPcQsUuvsGvZiI6uLFEqRpMipOyFGGE7Ec1ToBphmvVS2H9N_cjeFS-9G4Tw96yYhFPAkbockih4SvnTauSgwoWrNpOhjnhmSSNJnVfFdhWeJC5cMasbA/s1600-h/Bavarty_LF.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5273999326334775778" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 144px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJMpswC1KuGFwfeZG5If8j1kPcQsUuvsGvZiI6uLFEqRpMipOyFGGE7Ec1ToBphmvVS2H9N_cjeFS-9G4Tw96yYhFPAkbockih4SvnTauSgwoWrNpOhjnhmSSNJnVfFdhWeJC5cMasbA/s200/Bavarty_LF.JPG" border="0" /></a>The Bavarian artillery received a complete overhaul in ordnance and organization to include, yes, French gunner's uniforms. What remained was the "Raupenhelm", sometimes called the weiner helmet, that was worn by virtually every other branch of Bavarian service. </div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Bavarian (French) artillery unforms consisted of the dark blue coat and pants with scarlet collars, cuff, epaulets, and turnbacks. Accrutrements and belting were all standard Bavarian issue.</div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2rgi6LRcSqEB1VBtwpBJ9TZ3fEGUbXkI7juehphgCJXANWAfi5nK802kMQfdJiyRITVeQHAwtviWSL0Q2k7VpBZZ71vl_wBK56_wjz3oLP-lO1Y5PQOLxhI6h-VyTOElKge0MjnlVXw/s1600-h/Bavarty_LS.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274001204170097154" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 142px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2rgi6LRcSqEB1VBtwpBJ9TZ3fEGUbXkI7juehphgCJXANWAfi5nK802kMQfdJiyRITVeQHAwtviWSL0Q2k7VpBZZ71vl_wBK56_wjz3oLP-lO1Y5PQOLxhI6h-VyTOElKge0MjnlVXw/s200/Bavarty_LS.JPG" border="0" /></a>The guns were mainly 6-8 lb field peices with some occasional 12 lb guns included in various units. The guns were bronze smoothbores, and carriages of the common touble-trail design painted light gray. </div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPcXXNQVMlM1IMJ_g8hNLXQGHPXYxpt90K0p25SAaVzIPlN4-BkQBH3oO0EA1Qg4Lg75sh8kGtxeWEWjbgklhS2uTvvKb6vyQaW5ybEn72eSuJkKyhNyO_yRrp1plGowcEWMrMdPSLhA/s1600-h/Bavarty_LF2.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274002315640952146" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 106px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPcXXNQVMlM1IMJ_g8hNLXQGHPXYxpt90K0p25SAaVzIPlN4-BkQBH3oO0EA1Qg4Lg75sh8kGtxeWEWjbgklhS2uTvvKb6vyQaW5ybEn72eSuJkKyhNyO_yRrp1plGowcEWMrMdPSLhA/s200/Bavarty_LF2.JPG" border="0" /></a>The figures and guns were primed in dark-gray primer and them blackwashed for extra depth in the recesses but not necessarily darkening the highlight areas. The faces took to the brown wash very well and I was happy with most of the results. All colors were either GDW, Polly Scale, or bulk acrylics.<br /></div><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq_lefCMsiNd2GtKIMnXi9mISPBFcyibsPBEFnKnj8zxtgnMElGUY4qBUsb0piNDEvNeh9OVpk_wwB1KeL_apzAoNZIzilK5wueI2baAk9B8Fr_4ZcfYk9E8rfGxkScpgUIoaaP6Y9PA/s1600-h/Bavarty_RF.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274003445450756594" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 124px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq_lefCMsiNd2GtKIMnXi9mISPBFcyibsPBEFnKnj8zxtgnMElGUY4qBUsb0piNDEvNeh9OVpk_wwB1KeL_apzAoNZIzilK5wueI2baAk9B8Fr_4ZcfYk9E8rfGxkScpgUIoaaP6Y9PA/s200/Bavarty_RF.JPG" border="0" /></a>The belting and painting all the little "do-hickies" common to 19th century uniforms was tricky, but not overwhelming. All 15mm infantry have their uniform quirks. The tricky part was obtaining good, practical information concerning details and all the various colors. Painting Napoleonics is a bad time to go "FARB".</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaGnpLPUTggIltDnSQvAN-eq367wIvyQcI6H-JRr3adUFin0avrsJKLeHlvclOqGUdFwkZr1j2qPq04uIf-06Urmvxd2bdIi7-__hg3qGHnDHYAOIVoDKWgV63vnW4obd8CRe4Oy9g-w/s1600-h/Bavarty_rr2.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274004375880336690" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 191px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaGnpLPUTggIltDnSQvAN-eq367wIvyQcI6H-JRr3adUFin0avrsJKLeHlvclOqGUdFwkZr1j2qPq04uIf-06Urmvxd2bdIi7-__hg3qGHnDHYAOIVoDKWgV63vnW4obd8CRe4Oy9g-w/s200/Bavarty_rr2.JPG" border="0" /></a>The guns were a bit of an experiment... you will need to tell me what you think. My bronze paint seems to come off a little light IMHO, so I applied brown-wash to the entire barrel before adding black-wash to the barrel bands, muzzle, and lifting hooks. This method refers to the 12lber only, I skipped the brown-wash for the 6lber.</div><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><div>Looking at the photos I see a good amount of detail to finish and goofs to fix. This is my first foray into Napoleonic minis (at the long behest of Scott MacPhee), and I think I've a good deal more to learn. I don't feel these are up to my standards yet, I'm sure I can do better, so consider this a work in progress. That's all for now.</div><br /><br /><p align="justify"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtxjkX5-MvqlHyIfGEnCw5RarTxFhoBOom1j8Y4r1PGDIN3vQkJkepUcJf_FjXPBZz3wyV5TS-7OVKKw7THpdHGUxSNXYIagjboV1CQC7nxvUK9aSe8PJOqQBv3rU_in3VjMX0Rmw_1w/s1600-h/Bavarty_RR.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274005008876920322" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 136px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtxjkX5-MvqlHyIfGEnCw5RarTxFhoBOom1j8Y4r1PGDIN3vQkJkepUcJf_FjXPBZz3wyV5TS-7OVKKw7THpdHGUxSNXYIagjboV1CQC7nxvUK9aSe8PJOqQBv3rU_in3VjMX0Rmw_1w/s200/Bavarty_RR.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><p align="right"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIOhUlPG2bayLhSjWsGgX4DI96hXjLt9TAq_-PnoZgHMTfozTwMYgeL4wj6_mMRx4qaRssoRfGfSD2RRDJPdKa0AgFHudvdUjqdUygYhjrF6rfbRJL4s3tXh9_keG0x73d9B42sOlCNw/s1600-h/Bavarty_RF.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274005179239468802" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 124px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIOhUlPG2bayLhSjWsGgX4DI96hXjLt9TAq_-PnoZgHMTfozTwMYgeL4wj6_mMRx4qaRssoRfGfSD2RRDJPdKa0AgFHudvdUjqdUygYhjrF6rfbRJL4s3tXh9_keG0x73d9B42sOlCNw/s200/Bavarty_RF.JPG" border="0" /></a></p></div></div></div></div></div>TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-11942188113295019532008-11-09T00:51:00.000-08:002008-11-09T01:24:33.524-08:0012th SS Pak-40 Platoon ProjectWhew!!<br /><div><div><div><br /></div><div>I do apologize for the LOOOOOOOOONG delay between posts, but when one goes to parcel-out their day, sometimes the miniatures blog needs to take a backseat. It is NEVER a permanent backseat however, and I'm back and painting strong.</div><div><br /></div><div>This is the first installment of my 12th SS "HitlerJugend" army for Flames of War and other 15mm games that may come my way... the all important Pak Platoon!!</div><div><br /></div><div><br /><br /></div><div><br /></div><p align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_5tG6xytRgId_YrpBXiHPXK8Wkg4CtlTlYREHHfyph3VJvh3L-Y7X1yJbe-jCs3mA3pd0K2IxgevOHr0LJlJBtr44CeGdEMDzg10S751eWSZs8bbosZS_WHNOxxZWaBQzjYAPizuYjg/s1600-h/Pak_40_4.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266583052353594418" style="WIDTH: 212px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 80px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_5tG6xytRgId_YrpBXiHPXK8Wkg4CtlTlYREHHfyph3VJvh3L-Y7X1yJbe-jCs3mA3pd0K2IxgevOHr0LJlJBtr44CeGdEMDzg10S751eWSZs8bbosZS_WHNOxxZWaBQzjYAPizuYjg/s200/Pak_40_4.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /></p><div><br /></div><div>This was a 7.5 cm high-velocity gun, very lightweight for its size yet quite robust in the field. This weapon was comperable in performance to what the Pz Mk IV and Stg III/IV were carrying for armament, and was quite capable of knocking-out anything the Allies had in inventory at reasonable combat ranges.<br /><br /></div><div>THE GUNS...<br /></div><p align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgddYZT7qWSqvSfVXC0wM3a0fIB6Z931xRklzj09z7ZhTPk4UFIU5ODZBSa6lBIPQwo3T5TXd3ZeQp6VKi3afKnSyU-D-UOsfuLLaGZQ3ZcTKjbYJut5YRMui9lCqRP9tRHsDOZn1EqJQ/s1600-h/Pak_40_3.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266583049582480786" style="WIDTH: 131px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgddYZT7qWSqvSfVXC0wM3a0fIB6Z931xRklzj09z7ZhTPk4UFIU5ODZBSa6lBIPQwo3T5TXd3ZeQp6VKi3afKnSyU-D-UOsfuLLaGZQ3ZcTKjbYJut5YRMui9lCqRP9tRHsDOZn1EqJQ/s200/Pak_40_3.jpg" border="0" /></a></p><p align="left"><br />...were modeled well, but the castings had much to be desired. One gun tube was mis-cast and didn't have a muzzle brake on the end. I could chance my luck and send for a replacement part, or just model the gun as being w/o said brake. This is completely plausible as they were an assembly that screwed into the muzzle of the gun. Aside from losing a bit of projectile velocity, the gun would still be servicable. In addition to the mis-cast barrel, the lower half of the gun shield on all three models had a considerable amount of flash and 'crap' that had to be cut and filed down. This proved to be very difficult.</p><div><br /></div><div><br /><br /></div><div><br /></div><p align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgod2QWlqcnh-WpflnfV4Kb4HoJtCaObcfamtsuj4ois3WGZslAaeOQx-cTsJVZ8y1wcIxE8c3ZUyN330UNn19tcDVn4kP0ha2B_1gg-u6GKL4ylLoZbcFhTF2dgYqEVD8w-pgEDcsvmQ/s1600-h/Pak_40_1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266583035513422194" style="WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 108px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgod2QWlqcnh-WpflnfV4Kb4HoJtCaObcfamtsuj4ois3WGZslAaeOQx-cTsJVZ8y1wcIxE8c3ZUyN330UNn19tcDVn4kP0ha2B_1gg-u6GKL4ylLoZbcFhTF2dgYqEVD8w-pgEDcsvmQ/s200/Pak_40_1.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /></p><div><br /></div><p align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGgi2emR7E7vlZmJGWjqDu4h04QeoDjfXX2LIaqcI8pjfTzrNkMyBBC330AZfuf7EvSOojpRBoqtzLLWIEOdXFO-9p3_holrT7PZWuiSEk_5UetSpzckntFsRE2znuuM8fsD_J7U1pNw/s1600-h/Pak_40_2.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266583047573499394" style="WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 138px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGgi2emR7E7vlZmJGWjqDu4h04QeoDjfXX2LIaqcI8pjfTzrNkMyBBC330AZfuf7EvSOojpRBoqtzLLWIEOdXFO-9p3_holrT7PZWuiSEk_5UetSpzckntFsRE2znuuM8fsD_J7U1pNw/s200/Pak_40_2.jpg" border="0" /></a></p><p align="center"><br /></p><div>THE CREWS...<br /></div><div>... were by the new sculpter at BattleFront and for the most part were ok. The prone ammo handler was a disappointment as there was little face detail. Only after a wash did any appreciable detail materialize.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><p align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Yhe9APJrtPtOejc9i_NKKe0KN6j58UH3QBgWx136ZLUolCoq4PMVQDbnpvuVm5u_D7sf1CZ2t8JuiZFmMk2HFtIUp6mxoXGfGvOXKzbpI9PljimjYbPbpLv_Gvz5HZZWKHXAANboOA/s1600-h/Pak_40_5.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266583057059030066" style="WIDTH: 191px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Yhe9APJrtPtOejc9i_NKKe0KN6j58UH3QBgWx136ZLUolCoq4PMVQDbnpvuVm5u_D7sf1CZ2t8JuiZFmMk2HFtIUp6mxoXGfGvOXKzbpI9PljimjYbPbpLv_Gvz5HZZWKHXAANboOA/s200/Pak_40_5.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /></p></div><div>THE STANDS...</div><div> </div><div>... were the plastic stands that come with the pack though I HIGHLY suggest that you wash them. They are just sick with release agent and paint, glue, etc has a very rough time sticking to them. Healthy doses of railroad ballast (no kitty litter) and static grass complete the package.</div><div><div><br /></div><div>I still have a bit more to do to be "completely" finished, adding silfor grass, some minor details, but in all a decent package of minis. </div><div></div></div></div>TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-4937589063135652862008-07-28T00:16:00.000-07:002008-12-11T14:59:54.413-08:00Tiger Project Finished...Sorry it's been a while, but after a few weeks of travel and other distractions, the Tigers are finished. Let's discuss the King Tiger first.<br /><div><div><div><div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3eBuwtiGRAy_cD49tqGi1hTAT4EuYD-90BgjMLtvVClmlz27oo6F7UbNKneeBMUjnnDBmgDFMjErwch7dIbkexAoMvw0huisEApv2qS4fW3O0kIl4DD8F8OoJfXKCqp30Q-JZlJw51Q/s1600-h/Tiger2_side_lft.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227960942626689202" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3eBuwtiGRAy_cD49tqGi1hTAT4EuYD-90BgjMLtvVClmlz27oo6F7UbNKneeBMUjnnDBmgDFMjErwch7dIbkexAoMvw0huisEApv2qS4fW3O0kIl4DD8F8OoJfXKCqp30Q-JZlJw51Q/s320/Tiger2_side_lft.JPG" border="0" /></a></div><br /><div>This (as seen earlier in my last post) is a Battlefront King Tiger in 15mm, painted as a favor for a gaming friend here in Moscow. All in all it is a great looking model, and it assembled well with little to no difficulties, but I do wonder if the gun is over-scale...</div><br /><br /><div>Anyway, after priming, the tank was basecoated in Tamiya dark yellow. I only recently learned that Tamiya paints are best thinned with alcohol or somthing like it. Not being an airbrusher, I was surprised at this detail. Nevertheless, all my usual difficulties with brushing Tamiya paints never materialized. For the camo striping I wanted to experiment with something a little darker than the Polly "olive and brown" treatment, so I went with GDW equivalents. Both were considerably darker than Polly, but in the end it worked out.</div><div><br /> </div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEOSzkWKUFx_tuEotL94cuclywsm_69i-ZfTurUB7MWqQV8EbPynf1hBZHSSe1N0blHDapDBO4dsUoYHzcOFxqcAO6w88iyWmuRG2VdhOA9klmrX-XgcraTvI58JLLeKfX9Ih9Gvp9qw/s1600-h/Tiger2_side_rgt.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227963570960858962" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEOSzkWKUFx_tuEotL94cuclywsm_69i-ZfTurUB7MWqQV8EbPynf1hBZHSSe1N0blHDapDBO4dsUoYHzcOFxqcAO6w88iyWmuRG2VdhOA9klmrX-XgcraTvI58JLLeKfX9Ih9Gvp9qw/s320/Tiger2_side_rgt.JPG" border="0" /></a>The next step was the real experiment ... the wash. Now, having tried and failed miserably in most attempts at washing, I keep looking for the next great idea. I think I found it. "MoMini" from the Battleground Minis forum offers a jaw-dropping tutorial with a platoon of Pz IV's. His secret is a wash of artist oils in turpentine. Now, if you don't mind that pine smell, I highly recommend this method. A 20% paint solution will yield spectacular results in both toning down your basecoat as well as creating vivid depth. According to the tutorial, one just blots where you need it and the turpentine takes care of everything else. THIS is a wash that actually does what it is supposed to do. With a bit of practice a painter should get the results they are looking for.</div><br /><div>After a liberal wash, hitting the engine deck three <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguXs1oJPk32qd8m9WMxHvd7Qz_NLzMH-4KOtmaHMuX2CI2lll9E8t22tfpjWKiekvspu0Ihw8mVSieL17y9xx7h17ziO6v_V3myLxEqCHMdv-eFuAgFvAMgH9qA5JMy1Kaq3fmmbDsQQ/s1600-h/Tiger2_rear_obl.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227965961645024466" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguXs1oJPk32qd8m9WMxHvd7Qz_NLzMH-4KOtmaHMuX2CI2lll9E8t22tfpjWKiekvspu0Ihw8mVSieL17y9xx7h17ziO6v_V3myLxEqCHMdv-eFuAgFvAMgH9qA5JMy1Kaq3fmmbDsQQ/s320/Tiger2_rear_obl.JPG" border="0" /></a>separeate times and the track twice, a drybrush of Polly 'panzer dark yellow' brings the detail back out. Some handpainted turret numbers and some paint on the crew and we were good to go. </div><br /><div>After I got in a little practice, I turned my attention to my Tiger E, from the Wittmann kit, also by Battlefront. Honestly, since I have discoverd BF, I haven't even bothered to look anywhere else for 15mm WW2 minis. </div><br /><div> </div><div> </div><div>My intention was to model "007", the Tiger Wittmann died in during the closing of the Falaise Pocket. It was his role as acting commander of SS Tiger Bn 101 that placed him in 007, and that <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnwJY7JV6RxWvQBZCJEEN5mZ1QSl4a0skkSLjiK4QZvcvVoEmSRnB9eK4r_Cmm9RAAwEzRUC8s1BnDFlylbHKOprWGJ-2fEl69U2XjD_kstPYUTEFzVutaNHkMQ2c8luDimOM1VrJsJQ/s1600-h/witt_front.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227968679469642722" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnwJY7JV6RxWvQBZCJEEN5mZ1QSl4a0skkSLjiK4QZvcvVoEmSRnB9eK4r_Cmm9RAAwEzRUC8s1BnDFlylbHKOprWGJ-2fEl69U2XjD_kstPYUTEFzVutaNHkMQ2c8luDimOM1VrJsJQ/s320/witt_front.JPG" border="0" /></a>is how I wanted to remember him, and game him on my table. As you may have guessed, resources on 007 are few and far between. The only photo I've seen is that of the wreckage. I figured that if I kept to the general paint scheme displayed by other SS 101 Tigers, I wouldn't be too far from the mark.</div><br /><div>Using nearly the same technique as the King Tiger, I based with the dark yellow, but kept to the Polly olive and brown instead of the darker GDW versions. I used a short brush, "stippling" technique for the camo. Most SS 101 Tigers had been painted in smaller blotches of green and brown, so the striping as on the KingTiger wouldn't work. After the camo the mini was hit with the wash. This time instead of a 10/10/80 black-brown-turpentine wash as with the KingTiger, I went with black. Again, heavy on the track and the engine deck. The next challange was to simulate wron paint on the turret. Again, MoMini had a great technique of using bit of the mini-packing foam. I still am in an experimental stage with this, but so far I like the results. </div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiCSReE5A95vuqOg8YJ83IWbBlvKGUri9VE932lazfhS17KYAHRN4m5ZhbHGVy7TJjYqno8mCVeaISTRPFPsa6Lg8D-Jx1gnEswYMX7ZoM1sXbJ4aMB2cCj9Kvxcih-Yb_4wlgiYmkCw/s1600-h/witt_front_rgt.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227971454061310066" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiCSReE5A95vuqOg8YJ83IWbBlvKGUri9VE932lazfhS17KYAHRN4m5ZhbHGVy7TJjYqno8mCVeaISTRPFPsa6Lg8D-Jx1gnEswYMX7ZoM1sXbJ4aMB2cCj9Kvxcih-Yb_4wlgiYmkCw/s320/witt_front_rgt.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />One way I did depart from the KingTiger was that after the wash and drybrush, I took another shage of yellow and "brightened up" the panzer yellow patches of the tank. In what amounted to a 'heavy dry-brush', the yellow portions appear more yellow than tan. Again, attention was paid to spare track, cable, pioneer tools, as well as the crew, and I must admit that I am happy with the end result.</div><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCuOrCjp_bezAXOh48s9ZS8M-wUZCJiOhYNZLZ57NzByUwrBCRDIAeQXhtxOObuZ4HrvY4SriONUifBNNuqWjRWcD1uBNnGHDuF8fqPJeQNNkBgyFQJt5AgePI35kE0ec5WmZwuztxUQ/s1600-h/witt_rear_lft.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227972674731968834" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCuOrCjp_bezAXOh48s9ZS8M-wUZCJiOhYNZLZ57NzByUwrBCRDIAeQXhtxOObuZ4HrvY4SriONUifBNNuqWjRWcD1uBNnGHDuF8fqPJeQNNkBgyFQJt5AgePI35kE0ec5WmZwuztxUQ/s320/witt_rear_lft.JPG" border="0" /></a> One thing that I am happy about (and I usually am not) is the turret numbering. I firmly believe in hand-lettering all turret and hull markings. Not that I am against decals, but I feel one has to work too hard for the results you end up with. </div><div> </div><div>Normally, my numbers tend to wander in size as they get painted, meaning, my left-most zero would be a different size than my seven. It didn't seem to happen thin time. I used 'dirty white' for the numbers, and 'dirty white' & 'tarnished black' for the national cross.<br /><br /><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzOXUAEutG4g2Hr5SdFy_OrH4Dxh-Aegvpz3ESUAPi7ykfqvWJjhL-4gJSPQbYlK8-lT9hiOIFr6o1bvMxis_LjZpgnXzp5tUW0WrpbFa3j0XtD0syVroNBw5Gi_y-kaVo_uP2fk110w/s1600-h/witt_front_rgt2.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227972795319972146" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzOXUAEutG4g2Hr5SdFy_OrH4Dxh-Aegvpz3ESUAPi7ykfqvWJjhL-4gJSPQbYlK8-lT9hiOIFr6o1bvMxis_LjZpgnXzp5tUW0WrpbFa3j0XtD0syVroNBw5Gi_y-kaVo_uP2fk110w/s320/witt_front_rgt2.JPG" border="0" /></a></div></div></div></div></div></div><br /><p>Heavy washes for the engine deck, tarnished black drybrush for the powder fouling of the muzzle brake. I went with dirty white foe the loader's hatch, and dark yellow (washed & drybrushed) for the driver's hatch.</p><p>What's next?? I need to finish Wittmann's command stand, and then a "PanzerMeyer" command stand. I'm using this opportunity to get reaquainted with SS infantry camo painting.</p><p> </p><p> </p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227973076256107586" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY3sMfcU_qzKoj9MnBtjsetDFMdZl7yR-t7xy19Z7m8ibXtNvBv5QwCBVb4wwEDXcYhEjmJZy0zVl5tjzk0MyOMc5uE3D4dxV0P6fhLrf85F0NSD9K9H7IEvTO-psW2Cz1qoseJ92NTg/s320/Tigers_front_hgh.JPG" border="0" /></p><p align="center">Stay tuned!</p>TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4623071111499413643.post-80778324427324084922008-06-20T13:47:00.001-07:002008-12-11T14:59:56.215-08:00A word about primer...<div>Me, I'm a black primer man. I spend my money and gaming time on historical miniatures and rules systems and have left that "fantasy crap" be. In that vein, the darker, draber, and deeper the model and mini I can make w/o going to special lengths to do so, the better! </div><br /><br /><div>Saying that, what is best to use? I've tried all kind of primers and and paints, and most have left me wanting. But there were some interesting experiments. In all:</div><br /><br /><div>DON'T USE PAINT!! Either brushed or sprayed on. It will apply WAYYYYY too thick and you will loose surface detail. They key here is to do the most, with the least in terms of priming product.</div><br /><br /><div>After many failed experiments, the best I have found is auto primer in an "off-black" to "darker gray". </div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214069647082414066" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-vLPMkLA8aTkc6sRwznt7CYkztg4pPLOBVp7Rq7Y5V4cHvCSmQQkSSItmtEg4rCSvK4f69L-IHPiunfRqL9j5LQC6lqsjUCXXlWrwOc0cVVBe07_S6QL_YIAtuem7FvqaTN0k5zq7mA/s320/Tiger2_primer.jpg" border="0" /><br />The light in this photo gives a yellowish cast, but the results are fantanstic. Primers, as opposed to 'full-on' paint tends to apply thinner and cover better provided you don't have a heavy hand with the can. <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214070377564982066" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje_FjS48tPsv5G8-HTY7MoYCuP5nNE43j7uVNJ5DA0z5rt00T4DFZWyBfYeXn5rOvIBY5aiafmUwn0DU8m39Tdqd57a-c2Cxd5DA8QGgloOBQnvoZrrfAf7vC19o0aGXLNqDpxLu0JZQ/s320/primer.jpg" border="0" /><br /><p>This is "Rustoleum", in OFF-BLACK... no full black or standard gray. It kinda splits the difference between the two. I prime figs, vehicles, everything with this stuff and my results have been very satisfactory. It sells for around $5 a can, and does a great job, however, towards the end of the can, or if it has sat for a while, it can "spit" and ruin your project. Always (and this is a good rule for any product) test it first. I use a cardboard box to spray into and keep the overspary contained. A few test shots inside the box before I spray the model or fig is a good idea before I prime.</p><p></p><p>-aus</p>TIGERtankerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07596975610158637098noreply@blogger.com0